what is the difference between the p4400 and the p4460?

This device, the P4400, will reset all of its timed measurement values to zero if power is lost or the device is unplugged. The P4460 has "non volatile" memory, using a battery to provide the necessary voltage to power the (S)RAM memory, which means that it will not lose the data if power to the 4460 is lost. The P4460 also will let you input the cost per KWH from your provider to calculate the cost to operate the appliance over a week, month and year (assuming that your use is the same during the extrapolated period as it was during the measurement period). For me the data retention feature is well worth the extra $4 since I want to keep track of the energy used by a window air conditioner which will vary by the outdoor temperature, the sun hitting the building, the humidity, etc.

.most of my outlets are 20 amps or more, the killawatt is only 15 amps does that make a difference in calculations, the garage is 40 amp.

This will only plug into a 120 VAC outlet. The standard 120 VAC outlet in almost all homes is only rated 15A continuous duty, but can take more for a second like when a room air conditioner compressor starts up. This is probably following those same rules. If the wiring is 12 gauge or thicker, it can be hooked to a 20 amp breaker even though all of the outlets in the average house are rated 15A, at least in most states. The reality of the matter is that wiring and outlets can always take somewhat more than the ratings and everything is oversized for safety. But is is always considered unsafe to plug in any device that uses more than 15 amps into a typical house outlet. An exception is commercial outlets that fit both home devices and heavier duty commercial device plugs and those outlets are usually rated at 20 amp. Those outlets are more common in businesses and uncommon in homes. An air conditioner or commercial refrigerator that uses more than about 10 continuous amps will normally be a 240 volt appliance and require different type of outlet designed for 240 volts, same is true of typical electric clothes dryer and this device would not adapt to those.

Will this work with two prong (non-grounded) outlets?

Be Careful- defeating a polarized plug can be dangerous. The wide prong is neutral and connected to ground. The narrow prong is "hot" (energized) compared to ground. Some devices such as tools, chargers, and others use polarization to reduce the chance of electrical shock. If the device, such as most lamps, doesn't have a polarized plug then there is no concern, an adapter or extension cord is fine. If a device has a polarized 2 prong plug and you decide to use an adapter anyway, make sure the KillaWatt's plug's small slot on front is aligned with the wall plugs small slot and the larger slot on front aligns with the larger slot on the wall plug to maintain polarity. It is impossible to reliably maintain polarity using an extension cord so I would never attempt it. I would never cut off the ground prong, the blade prongs on the KillaWatt are the same size because the ground prong aligns the correct prongs with the wall plug so they do not need to be different sizes. Once you cut off the ground prong the odds are 50/50 of dangerously reversing the polarity of the plug on the front of the KillaWatt since it may, or may not, be plugged in correctly. Similarly if the wall plug slots are both the same size you are once again at 50/50 odds of plugging the KillaWatt in incorrectly with an adapter making the KillaWatt itself an "adapter" permitting you to plug polarized plugs into unpolarized wall plugs. Once again if the lamp etc doesn't have a polarized plug this is not an issue. (If you want to know more about why polarization makes things safer just ask)

Hi, is this unit able to capture peak current draw? I want to see if my audio amplifier ever gets close to tripping my breaker.

I don't have it but from what I know about it is that you can measure watts for long period of time, So - reset meter, set it to continuously measure watt*hour (WH, watt for 1 hour=60 minutes*60=for 3600 seconds), connect your turned off amp, turn it on and immediately turn it off exactly after 1/2 second. Meter SHOULD show wattage consumed for 1/2 second because they say it measures power FEW TIMES PER Second (though still will be measuring after amp will be turned off, but it is ALMOST not consuming power) - that will be your surge power - multiply it by 3600 and by 2 (because 3600 for hour and for whole 1 sec it would be twice higher) and divide it on 115, or whatever voltage will be during measurements (put voltmeter to measure voltage, or just measure voltage before starting test, though voltage can can change fast). And you will get average current for first 1/2 sec. If you manage to turn it off exactly after 1/4 sec (but don't forget to multiply measured WattHour by 3600 and by 4, because 3600 higher for 1 hour and for whole 1 sec it would be 4 times higher) then measuring current surge will be more accurate. This calculation imitates WattHours consumed by amp as if it worked with average current equal to surge current for 1 hour, and that is why you divide those WattHours on voltage to get average current equal to surge current (which actually happened only during part of first second). So, if meter accurate enough to measure small power consumption then all this will work.But remember: amp MAY not like it, though SHOULD Tolerate such thing - anyway, don't blame me if something happens to it. I would do that myself, i believe this is not unusual for amp.

Shipping Weight	0.17 Kilograms
Item Model Number	LGP4400
Item Part Number	P4400
Is Assembly Required	No
Capacity	standard
Number of Pieces	1
Item Shape	rectangular
Weight	159 g
Manufacturer	P3 International

P3 International P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor

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