Subaru Genuine Power Steering Pump O-Ring - 34439FG000-2004-2019 Impreza WRX STi

This fits 2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i Power Steering Pump suction inlet.

Perfect fit for SOHC EJ253s, the black o ring that is the "correct" part 34439AE021 is actually too large. Subaru got it wrong, I noticed when trying to use it on the power steering suction inlet the o-ring gets squeezed outward right before the inlet clamps down, leaving a large air gap.This one fits perfectly despite it being posted for the Turbo models. Why do the turbos and NAs have different o rings anyway? Must be like how Subaru put the cheap graphite head gaskets on the NAs. Go figure.

Tried two other Amazon vendors, but problem persisted. This one is a bit more costly, but it works. No issues after six weeks of constant use.

Was the right part and doesnt leak

Very simple replacement, literally took less than 10 minutes with a screwdriver and a 10mm socket, and there is no need to drain the fluid, or clamp the hose. The old black O-ring was a bit rigid and square-looking. There was also a bit of fluid around the connection it's supposed to seal. Took most of the PS noise away.It will take a bit of driving and turning the wheel lock-to-lock to clear all the air out of the system, so expect some noise for up to a couple of days. If the noise does not completely disappear, check the hose clamp connections on the hose from the PS fluid reservoir to the pump. When this hose is old and rigid, it does not seal well until it warms up. So, if the connections at the hose are at all wet with the power steering fluid, this O-ring may not completely fix the noise.

This worked on our 2008 Subaru Impreza 2.5. While you are at this it replace the hose that runs from the power steering reservoir to the pump [Reference Number]: 3403711, 34611AG010. A stiff old hose could also be contributing to your whine and leaking issues. Yes its a rip off, but it fixes it for a whole lot less than a new pump. Turkey baster out (or whatever tool you have to suck out fluid) as much fluid as you can from the reservoir, you'll notice this hose comes with a yellow plug, that is important. Put rags under the reservoir and under the hose on the pump side. Remove the clip from the reservoir side first, then put that yellow plug in the hose. Then remove the pump side, and pull the hose out with your thumb over the hole. This should reduce the mess of draining the hose quite a bit. Take that hose to your container pump side down and remove the plug to drain it. Remove the connector from the top of the pump and replace that stiff old O ring with your new one. Place it back on the pump carefully, if you are forcing it or getting resistance you probably ruined your new O ring. Light pressure will seat it, reinstall the screw, and install the new hose. Now for the bleeding, and replacing of old fluid. DO NOT start the motor until this is done. Put the front of the vehicle up on jack stands or just jack up the front enough so the front wheels are off the ground. Add new fluid to the fill line for your ambient temp, cold or hot, or middle, then turn the key just enough to unlock the steering wheel. Now spin the wheel from lock to lock about 20 times not super fast, you want to purge the air slowly, then suck out the reservoir and repeat until the fluid is all freshened up, and you stop seeing bubbles. Expect this to take some time, at least 5 of these fill, 20 lock to locks, suck, fill again until it is bright red. Put the cap back on the reservoir, clean up any mess, put the car back down and fire that baby up. Go for a drive an enjoy that missing whining sound. Well done.

Fit as it sy

Car