SIKA Sikaflex Self-Leveling Sealant, 12-Pack, 10.1 Oz, Gray – Easy Application, Quick-Curing, Waterproof & Weather-Resistant, Ideal for Driveways, Garages, Sidewalks, and Concrete Joints

Great product. Used it for concrete joints for sidewalks and between driveway and garage. Make sure to use good painters tape and pressing the tape firmly in so that the self-leveling doesn't spill over your unintended area of concrete like I did. Also no to put back a rod and underneath the back of rod as necessary put sand so that you don't end up using too much of the sealant. I ended up using all 12 sealants for a three car garage scene and roughly 10 concrete sidewalks that are 4 to 5 ft and width. Very glad I have bought in bulk packaging as I was expecting some leftovers but ended up using all of them. Also make sure to let it dry 24 hours and also for the tape that are used to prevent spillage to remove those tape before the sealant fully cures. I peeled off the tape roughly around 6 to 8 hour of cure. I also test tried it on concrete cracks not sure how this will turn out but at least for now other than the aesthetic side it's a good piece of mind to know cracks are sealed to prevent further erosion beneath the cracks.

This sealant worked exactly as described. It self-levels beautifully on concrete joints and stays flexible after curing. I used it on driveway expansion joints and got a clean, professional-looking finish with no air bubbles. A great go-to product for concrete sealing jobs. Works great with backer rod.

This works very well. However, there are some lessons I have learned. I will list them so they might help someone else. 1. Any deep cracks should be filled completely using backer rod or something else; otherwise the product will simply drain into the crack. 2. Wind mixed with leaves is not your friend. The leaves will fall into the product and you will have to wait until it dries to pull out what you can and the ones you can't get out will just have to decompose. 3. Have a piece of cardboard and a rag or paper towels nearby. It can get messy when you finish the section you are working on. The product will not completely stop flowing (slow stringy drip). 4. Start on a spot that is not too conspicuous. The first try will have some mistakes. After 2 or 3 times at using this, you will get really good at it. If you follow my lessons learned you might be good after your first try. Note: it takes about 2 days to dry to the touch. Hope this helps.

I purchased this product to seal cracks in my 11 YO concrete driveway parking pad and workshop building approach, each having slopes of ~ 3 - 4 degrees. The rest of the long driveway is gravel. I just applied this first tube yesterday, mid-day with the air being relatively dry and the temperature being ~ 83 degrees. My comments are based upon a first time use completing ~ 1/3 of required repairs. I expect to do a much better job with the next two tubes that are on order, based upon this initial experience. This product is very runny. Even using a new caulking gun with a pressure release lever used at the completion of each application, the material still ran out of the tube very profusely. I ended up having to plug the end of the tube quickly after each application stoppage, with the tube being held over a small box to catch all of the material still coming out of the tube- which was a messy affair. It is still tacky and soft after 7 hours. At 24 hours, the material is still slightly soft to finger pressure, but okay to walk on. I will give it another couple days before driving a vehicle on the repairs. - I pressure washed the very dirty concrete to ensure better product adhesion at its outer edges and a better color match. I suspect if I pressure wash again in the future (4000 PSI/, 4 Gal/Min unit) the Sikaflex repair would be damaged. Time will tell. My goal is to stop water entering the cracks and causing more damage. If I have to reapply in say, 5 years, I will do so as required. - I opened the concrete cracks to ~ 1/4" wide and ~ 1/2"+ depth using a grinding disc and would probably do the same next time- to ensure there is enough material applied and any loose concrete was removed. All repair areas were cleaned with a water hose afterwards and left to dry for two days. - Initially I thought I did a good job of filling the cracks completely, as I was moving the caulking gun along the crack. But with the slight compound slopes and possibly NOT filling the crack to the bottom as I thought I was doing- over time as the material was setting up, it sunk/moved to the point I soon went back and applied an additional coat to fill the crack level. In some spots this 2nd coat somehow became kind of "ropey"- see pics. - Next time I will pay better attention to filling the crack to the bottom and not add a second coat, if possible. It may be best to have with a little bit of concave filling rather than the raised "ropey" texture I have in spots that will probably be damaged by vehicle use. Time will tell.

This product is not for sealing vertical cracks and joints, horizontal only. I have a few wide gaps between slabs in my driveway and I was told that could undermine it and cause it to sink. I got some sand and filled in the gaps, leaving a half inch depth at the top. You put this stuff in your caulking gun and then basically just pour it in. It's a little thicker than honey and it will flow and fill in the area so you don't need to be as precise as with regular caulk. Just move along, allowing the caulk to ooze out as you go. It is self leveling and self sealing because it flows and makes contact with all the sides. It is supposed to remain stretchy and keep the water out for a long time. I can't say anything about that because I only just applied it but it has dried to a rubbery consistency and it looks great.

Positive: Works really well. Self leveling. Takes about 5 full days to dry before you can use the driveway. Blends well into the concrete ( Sprinkle some sand on it while its still wet to blend in). Negative: If you don't store the tube standing up, you will have a big air bubble inside and when you start squeezing, it will spurt out in a blob wasting the material and making a mess. Very hard to clean up spills. Recommended.

If you’re looking for a sealant that combines ease of use with long-lasting performance, look no further than Sika Sikaflex Self-Leveling Sealant. This product has transformed my concrete surfaces, providing a clean, durable, and professional finish with minimal effort. Why I Love It: • Self-Leveling Magic: The true beauty of this sealant lies in its self-leveling properties. Once applied, it flows smoothly into joints, creating a flat, even surface without the need for tooling. This feature is particularly beneficial for those new to sealant applications, as it reduces the chances of uneven lines or missed spots. • Durability That Lasts: After curing, the sealant remains permanently elastic, effectively bridging gaps up to 1.5 inches wide. It’s designed to withstand the rigors of daily traffic, weather fluctuations, and the wear and tear typical of high-traffic areas like driveways and garage floors. • Quick and Easy Application: The product is a one-component polyurethane sealant, meaning no mixing is required. It’s available in both 10.1 fl. oz. and 29 fl. oz. cartridges, catering to various project sizes. The application process is straightforward—just clean the joint, apply the sealant, and let it level itself. • Paintable and Weather-Resistant: Once cured, the sealant is paintable with water-based, oil-based, or rubber-based paints, allowing it to blend seamlessly with your existing surfaces. It’s also waterproof and resistant to aging and weathering, ensuring long-term performance. Tips for Best Results: • Surface Preparation: Ensure that the joint surfaces are clean, dry, and free from oil, grease, or any other contaminants. This will promote optimal adhesion and longevity of the sealant. • Use Backer Rods: For deep joints, consider using a backer rod to control the depth of the sealant and prevent excessive use. • Curing Time: Allow the sealant to cure for 3 to 5 days for full strength. During this period, avoid any traffic or disturbance to ensure the best results.

I really like this stuff. It flows and self-levels very well but that quality means some advance planning makes things go much smoother. My advice is to keep the box it came in and when you go to apply it cut off the box flaps from the side you opened and put a grocery store plastic bag in the bottom of the empty box. Also, have paper towels handy. The reason for this? Unlike caulk, when you stop pumping this stuff out and it quits flowing it still drips for a long time, even from an "empty" tube. When the tube is empty immediately point the spout up, remove the tube from the caulk gun and throw it in the box you kept. Also, when you stop pumping this stuff out it takes a while for it to stop flowing like caulk does, but even then, if you point the nozzle down it will slowly flow out of the tube. It is handy to have one of those cardboard flaps you cut off to immediately slide under the nozzle as you lift it up from the job. Get the nozzle pointed up and have a paper towel ready. Also, if you use a backer rod, make sure it is a tight fit. I had one spot where the backer rod barely touched each side and this stuff apparently flowed through a bit. I had a dip in edges in that spot as it cured. If the backer rod is not reasonably tight I suggest putting a little coarse "play sand" on the sides of the backer rod (where the backer rod curves down and meets the concrete on each side). You can ignore all that and still get a great result, but you might then spend a good while cleaning up.