DROK CNC DC Buck Converter with Meter, 6-70V to 0-60V 10A 600W, DC 5V 9V 12V 24V 36V 48V 60V Fixed Output Voltage, Adjustable Power Supply Voltage Regulator Step Down Module

Works great, just plan on building your own box to put it in. I use it to control the current from a 24v battery to a Jackery.

=== EDIT==== It was user error, I was mistaken about the form of power output from the printer controller and assumed it to be constant DC, it was actually PWM and I am EXTREMELY surprised this buck converter actually managed to WORK even ONCE with that! I wired it directly to the main power supply and it heats the bed without issue. === ORIGINAL POST ==== I am about to test it to find out the issue literally in a few minutes, but, I used this "DROK CNC DC Buck Converter with Meter, 6-70V to 0-60V 20A 1200W" to drive a single 350mm x 350mm 3d printer heated bed from the fused 24v 15A heater output of a duet3d 6hc control board and after a single PID tuning it stopped heating at the rate determined to be "normal". The control board kept throwing a heater fault every time I powered it to print a test piece.

I have had good results with DROK products and when I was looking for building my own power supply using a toroid xfmr, rectifier, cap that had on hand - this DC-DC converter with a nice remote control/display assembly fit my needs perfectly. My power supply "back end" is able to produce 45 vdc at 4 amps and via switching the xfmr leads I can parallel the two secondaries for 22vdc at 8amps. I purchased the DROK model sold for 1200W to make sure I didn't stress the converter board in my application. Since my purchase arrived I've connected misc loads testing the DROK converter. It has worked perfectly so far. While I don't have a handy load to really stress the full power rating; it has handled my 5-150 watt loads using the 45 vdc input with no issues. The small cooling fan turns on automatically when loads over 50 watts or 2 amps are in use. I initally had my doubts the heatsink/cooling fan would do the job given the ad indicated up to 5-6 volt "overhead" used by the converter. So far I have seen around 2-3 volt overhead for my tests and that makes me a lot more comfortable. Prior to initial testing I looked over the converter board carefully for any workmanship concerns. I was pleasantly surprised to find everything clean, neat, and nothing that raised a concern that the unit might fry and die in my first application of power. In fact the only really minor thing I found during my inspection was the rectangular plastic cover over the display was attached skewed. Hardly a problem! Also, it's not mentioned in the front/back single page of instructions but when you cycle through the power/capacity/energy/time parameters using the encoder button you will also get an operating temperature reading after the time parameter which tells you the converter board temperature in degrees C. A nice feature when working the converter at high voltages/currents. One other oddity I found with the instruction sheet parameters is that the overcurrent protection is listed at 16Amps and output over power protection is set at 950Watts. Those don't match up to either the 0-10 amp or the 0-20amp models listed on the datasheet. For my purposes the default settings are fine but might be a concern for others wanting to use the maximums of this converter. I have no use for the serial communication interface or the fixed output voltage settings so can't help any reader with those aspects. The display controls take a few minutes to understand; but one thing I found helpful is just being patient and letting the timeout take effect rather than cycling through additional features/functions. There is a useful key/interfaces table on the supplied page of instructions that I found very helpful. In use, you will need to get used to a ramp up/down during power on/off. Think of it as the controller is constantly measuring the output and comparing to the setting. This results in the output voltage ramping up from 0 to say 15Vdc over a second or two - slow start so to speak. In addition you will likely see a small overshoot to your voltage setting in order of millivolts to 10's of millivolts. For a 12vdc fan test I would see the voltage overshoot to about 12.24 and then settle back to 12.0. During power off the voltage would gradually drop to 0 over about 3-4 seconds. Also, when power is initally applied to the converter the display will show zeros for everything for first few seconds and then display the last voltage/current limit settings. Best to wait to turn on the load until after you see the display has the desired settings. So far I'm very pleased with this DROK converter - exactly what I wanted for my power supply project and with the additional AH/WH/Time features it would be a nice addition for a solar/wind/battery system when need a lower DC voltage than what the battery bank provides; i.e., few hunderd watts of 12vdc from 24 vdc battery bank. Now I just need to get busy cutting a mounting hole for the display in my metal cabinet!

First one worked great for about 5 mins. During testing, I dropped voltage to 3.5v to charge lifep04 cell and heard a small pop - no worky after that. Then, decided I will try a replacement unit. Received that one and it wouldn't even turn on. Lots of wasted time and frustration. Back to the drawing board on a cheap battery charger.

This has worked exactly as described since it arrived. The PCB looks to be of a high quality assembly. The pick and place seems to have been right on target from what I can tell by looking at the masking.

I have solar panels with an open circuit voltage of 68 volts while the power bank I purchased takes a max of 60V, so I needed exactly this kind of converter. I have the 1200W variant. I mounted the board and control panel in a nice little project box from elsewhere on Amazon, and I admit I was a bit surprised to find the converter doesn't even get very warm handling 600W. Its little fan is functional and effective. Per my inline meters, the power loss through the unit at e.g., 62V and 9.4A input is quite small - only about 3% or 4%. An example reading I've been seeing in practical use is 583W input, 564W output. The status display is readable and it matches my other monitors within a percent or two. I like that it has a lot of useful settings like voltage and current limits, auto-on, etc., and they do work. My one complaint is that the input and output terminals are pretty small and close together for handling 1200W. Be careful when you are wiring things up to this, especially if you have thick wire. It really works and I honestly expected to have to pay a lot more for this functionality, but there are newer designs (e.g. on Ali Express) that are more efficient and have more features.

worked for a while then just quit under low load.

Seems to work very well. I'm going from 56v to 25.8v and when I measure with a multimeter it's spot on.

Very well thought out buck converter. Im using it for a 500w LED module and it's able to handle it like a champ. But be very careful not to wire it backwards or short the output or it might cause damage as it does not have the protections in place. The instructions are very helpful and all features seem to be reasonably accurate and can be adjusted if they are a little out of spec. For my use cases it's very good. Remember the maximum output voltage will be about 2-3v less than what your supplying it with. Other than that little quirk it's honestly a good product.

I was able to take a 52v battery and step it down to 36v, no issues, easy to use.

Still working after 1 month. No issues yet. Works as expected

I want a refund this unit is defective.

If your using ng this item for a golf cart 36v to 52v DC house lithium battery upgrade ,it doesn't work with the 36v setting ,not enough amos ,the output is 20 amps only on higher voltage. golf cart requires at least 50anps ,also has flimsy output terminals that break when tightened .. good idea but failed test. So after resoldering terminals and making them stronger ,I'm stuck with this item...