Hobbywing QUICRUN WP 1080 G2 Brushed 2-3s ESC

The Hobbywing QUICRUN WP 1080 G2 ESC is a fantastic upgrade for brushed RC setups (TT-02). Its smooth and precise control brings a noticeable improvement in performance, making trail driving and crawling much more enjoyable.The programmable features are extensive and easy to adjust, and the waterproof design ensures reliability even in wet conditions. The build quality is excellent, and the operation is quiet and efficient.

All the programming options make this a fantastic upgrade. I put this into my SCX10ii along with Injora 21T brushed motor and am very happy with the performance. All you need is Hobbywing programming card and you can adjust a ton of different options to really optimize the performance of your crawler

Brushed crawler? Yeah, just buy this. It's cheap, adjustable, and does exactly what you need. I have 5. Get the frequency dialed in so it's nice and quiet, and set the drag brake to the car weight and boom, go play!

No issues, works perfectly

Not crazy expensive nice and quiet. High performance buy the program card and Chang the settings. Love the smoothness over stock redcat gen7

I really like the ease of setting up the Hobbywing 1080. It is a great size and gives me a lot of control over the function of my Crawlmaster motor. I have ordered another one for my 1/24 scale RC Crawler. Great price for all the functionality you get!

I’ve only done some basic testing in a WPL C24-1KM so far, but it works identically to my original 1080 when set to the same settings. The slow crawl is still buttery smooth and the ESC is completely silent at 16K PWM. I’m only driving a 370 size motor, but I have zero doubts that it works just as smooth and precisely in a 540. The adjustable drag and real-drive mode work, I look forward to playing with these features some more! XT60 battery connector and bullet motor leads are standard.Seeing as my OG 1080 was buried under a hard body, I never felt how warm it got after running. This version claims to run cooler, so that would be a plus if it does! There are holes in the heat sink to accommodate a fan if additional cooling is needed.One thing to note: As advertised, this is the ESC and paper instruction booklet ONLY. No programming card, no baggie with shrink tube and double-sided tape, no goodies. The programming card can be bought separately or you can use the same one if you bought a G1.

initial review (will update once it gets some use on it); putting the two side by side, at least on my old V1 unit, the wires that come out of the heatsink top seem to have some solder 'wicked' up into the cables, making them stand up somewhat higher than they really need to. in some tight cases (chassis), that height can be too much.on the new version, I have noticed immediately that the wires lay flat right out of the top of the case. they must have changed their soldering tech. I hope its ok, but time will tell.the cap is bigger in size, on the new version.the new version has screw holes for a fan BUT THERE IS NO FAN in the box. realize that. they should have included one since they deleted the control/program led card ;(new version has a cover over the programming header. that was nice. wonder if it will get lost, over time.on the cable side, there are 2 more wires you can connect to pwm channels. on my build (photo) I use elrs and a betafpv receiver that has 5 channels. 2 for normal car use and that leaves 3 more.one is for 'real car mode' and I might play with that, but since I use radiomaster tx16s stick controls, I have no special need for car modes; my sticks already do better than pistol remotes.the other is for realtime drag brake control. that sounds interesting. I wish it was really a literal brake, no matter what the car is doing, but this is probably just the drag constant so you still have to trigger drag brake before this effect is seen. still, its a step forward.v2 comes with xt60 (yay!) already on it. wires are too long, though. why do they make them too long? ;) its a shame to cut and shorten them, but in a 1/16 build, extra wire lengths are not wanted.no complaints about v1. we'll see how this new v2 does, over time.FIRST UPDATE: after install, I decided to configure chan4 (skipping ch3 on my rx) as the realtime dragbrake chan. there's no docs that I can find other than the wire color (yellow) to use, no mention of the range of pwm values, so I just mapped the full range (1000-2000) and picked a control widget. at first I though to use the tx16s S1 pot, then the left side slider, but finally decided to give the throttle (yes!) a try. I have the right side controls doing steering (left right motion on stick2) and forward/backward as up/down on stick2. stick2 is self centering so its natural and after a few weeks of using airplane style stick remotes on cars, this is really quite good.that left the throttle (which is not spring returned) free so I'm trying that. put throttle 'down' and you have no drag brake. throw it up, even while driving, and brake tension is increased. its not a full stop at full-throw but that might be something I can set on the ESC via the led card.I left all wires full-length but it seems a bit long and clumsy. might trim them later. for now, it was an easy install. no reason to pick v1 over v2 unless you really want that 'free' led program card.