Replacement for Toyota and Lexus Xenon HID Ballast Headlight Control Unit Replaces KDLT003, DDLT003, 85967-53040, 85967-24010, 85967-52020 & Others

So I purchased and installed these for a friend's 2007 Prius. My mechanical background is ~45 years of serious auto tinkering, and prior mechanic. At any rate, my friend was quoted $1200 by the dealership due to both lights being out (1st 1, and then the other a month later), assuming both ballasts needed replacing. The 2 ballasts I purchased here were a fantastic value and works perfectly (I avoided the under-$30 versions of this ballast, due to concerns of longevity...... I was looking for a long-term fix and the difference in price for these seem worth it).INSTALLATION TIPS/COMMENTS: So I had never done this particular task on this model of car before. It's definitely very doable if you have any degree of mechanical experience. Hands down, the biggest issue of replacing this part is fishing the bulb socket head out of the headlight housing. I reviewed many videos and comments about the method of doing this. I did the way that made the most sense, and it was fantastically straightforward (after the first one of the 2 anyway....):1. Take out the dozen or so easy screws to partially "drop" the front bumper cover. This is really really easy and I've tried getting at the backside headlights the other way, I'll never do it again.2. Remove the headlight(s) entirely. Be careful not to break the numerous plastic electrical connector clips. Remove the 4 screws holding on the ballast as everyone says. CAREFULLY pull out the black blood with the 2 (black and red) wires on it. Again, try very very hard not to break this black plastic insulator.3. Rotate the headlight bulb connector ~1/8 turn counterclockwise to disengage it from the housing body. You'll then immediately discover that the connector is too thick to pass between the headlight housing body and the inner headlight structure. Various methods talk about disconnecting the replacement ballast socket, and numerous other tedious techniques. Not necessary. Use the "remove the headlight adjuster screw" technique --> use a 8 mm socket on a cordless drill and spin out the adjuster screw the 40 or so turns (to save your wrist). This is normal (right-handed) threading (counterclockwise to remove). Note that once the screw is loose it's easiest to just also remove the plastic socket which this adjuster screw turns through. No problem, just set it aside for the time being.4. Like another review of this part sez, once the long adjuster screw is removed, the socket cord now has much more room to swing to and fro inside the headlight housing. It's not perfect and not instantaneous, but if you swing it around to the biggest area on the side of the internals, the socket will squeeze through the tight spots with just a little friction.5. Now thread the new ballast light socket back the same way. Be very careful to not have the socket head "rotate" once it's inside the housing, and become too large to retrace your steps on the way out. If it does, just pull it back out and start over. The first time this took me for 5 minutes. The 2nd time it took me 20 seconds.NOTE: The new ballast part(s) that I received had a socket cord that was maybe 2 inches shorter than the original light cords. This is absolutely no problem, but note that the original "path" of the ballast cord went OUTSIDE/AROUND the adjustment screw. On the new part with the shorter cord, I just ran the cord to the inside aspect of the adjustment screw. It's plenty long to do it this way, and doesn't interfere with anything.6: The rest is just continuing the reversal of the disassembly procedure. Make sure to plug in your black/red wire plug the correct way (the red wire goes towards the "fat end" of the white receptacle socket --> which is important if you break the black plastic retainer like I did, because you forget which wire went where....). If your black plastic retainer breaks, you can just plug the spate fittings in and cover with HPV cement or make your own insulator. Also don't forget to reinstall the black foam gasket/seal that sits under the ballast in the housing, and the black rubber O-ring under the adjuster socket.I hope these comments help. I tried not to repeat the obvious but point out the most important things I learned.

Great deal. they work great so far. Perfect match to the original (07 Toyota Solara). they were fairly easy to replace and the lights are working again. this was the best priced one that i could fine that had decent reviews.

Fit properly and works well for the price.

I want to express that the product does work great once installed, but getting it that way is a little strange. In the package, it comes fully together, but this doesn't fit in the hole for Prius headlights, which means you have to take it apart, fit the wire through, then put it back together. It is also not easy to take it apart, and you should probably practice with the old one if replacing it.

I've only had it installed 5 days. But this appears to be an OEM factory replacement

They guarantee the unit for life, unless water damage. Even then you get 1 replacement. Great deal.

I received this ballast quickly with no issues. My mechanic installed it and my headlight worked fine for several months. At the 10-11 month time frame, I noticed my same headlight was not working again. I was sure it was my bulb that went out this time. To be sure, I swapped bulbs from one side to the other. To my surprise, both bulbs were fine. The new ballast was dead. There was no water, or moisture in my light assembly. Luckily, the seller sent out a new ballast at no charge, which I received today. Hopefully, this one will last longer. Unfortunately, I have to pay my mechanic all over again for his labor. Not good. Would have been cheaper to buy the original Toyota part and pay a single labor charge.

Over 11 months ago one headlight on my 2008 Toyota Prius had been flickering then blinking off, or staying lit for some period of time (15 to maybe 30 minutes) then turning off. An internet search indicated the ballast may be at fault so I replaced it with this one I'm reviewing and the ballast has been working fine ever since.The reason I'm writing this review now (after 11 months) is because the headlight started behaving the same way again so I contacted the ballast seller, GenXenon, thinking the replacement ballast was faulty. Their customer service responded very quickly stating they'd be happy to replace the ballast but that it's very rare for a ballast to fail and they politely suggested I swap the light bulbs to see if the problem happened with the other bulb (which was a good bulb). It did not happen and therefore the ballast was fine and the HID bulb was bad. I decided to buy two new HID lights since the ones in the car were the originals and therefore over 10 years old. I bought two "Philips D4R Standard Authentic Xenon HID bulbs" on Amazon and installed them. Headlights are working just fine.GenXenon customer service was VERY prompt and VERY polite and VERY ready to immediately ship a new ballast even If I had refused to swap the bulbs, which I'm glad I didn't! Their suggestion saved me the extra work of installing a new ballast to find out the problem was actually the HID light bulb.