VIGELA AC110~230V Fahrenheit and Celsius All-Purpose Temperature Controller(STC-3018) Equipped with Two Waterproof NTC Sensors

1) you get 2 of these items - both worked fine.2) You set 2 temperatures - the start temperature and the stop temperature (they call the stop temperature either the desired temperature or just “the temperature”.)3) to set the start temperature, press the UP arrow until the temperature blinks. Then use the up and/or down temperatures to set the desired starting temperature.4) to set the “stop” temperature, press the down arrow until the temperature blinks. Then use the up and/or down arrows to set the stop temperature.5) if start temperature > stop temperature, it is a cooler. If start temp < stop temperature, it is a heater.6) I dropped power (unplugged it) for 20 minutes and it retained the settings I had set.

i’m not to smart i know but instructions aren’t the, best but after getting it wired and figured out how to set it it works great i haven’t got another thermometer yet to check accuracy yet but i think it’s gonna be a good control switch

works fine!

It came in good condition and included good instructions printed on an 8.5x11" sheet. I was happy to see that the terminal blocks were sized to permit use of crimp ferrule terminals on the 16awg wire I used for connections. Programming the controller per the included instructions was straight forward and easy.I used it to replace the control board on a dehydrator I use for drying 3d print filament and regenerating dessicant beads. Once installed, it allows the dehydrator, once up to temperature, to maintain that temperature with only about a 0.5° C fluctuation, per use of a remote probe thermometer. That is a marked improvement over the multi-degree swings previously seen using the original controller.I've only been using this for a day now, if anything changes over time, I will update this review.UPDATE 7/24/2022The relay contacts died after less than 6 months of intermittant use. When I tried to use it today, it never warmed up.I disassembled the dehydrator so I could check the heating element circuit. There was continuity, so no breaks or blown thermal fuse.I then disassembled the controller connections, except for controller power, so I could test relay function. I could hear the click as the relay functioned when the temperture settings were changed and the "out" LED illuminated. However, when I tested the load terminals there was no continuity even though the relay should have been closed at that point.The dehydrator uses less than 6A at 120V, drawing 550 watts when running with the heating element on and less when it is just the fan. The controller is rated for 120V 10A so the contacts should have been able to handle the load.

It really works very well. It met my expectations.

This is an example of "hey I have a great idea!" by some engineer. Poorly executed though. You can't depend on setpoints when trying to use the second probe. Pretty useless overall. It would be a great stat if it was simply a double stat, 2 identical stats in one case.

This is a good quality item. Great value. Made with good quality materials. I would recommend this to anyone looking to buy.

TL; DR; Rated Power is overstated; simple interface; adjustable hysteresis, heating or cooling. Fahrenheit only; wimpy case and package.This controller seems to be available based on the back plate markings in a 12 or 24V version which I’d be a lot more comfortable with than 120V. This thing switches the hot lead from input to output so with 120V you will get that across the output terminals.I like the intended design. It’s a very simple package and cleverly done to that it uses actual contact switches instead of membrane keyboard. With only two keys you can set heating/cooling hysteresis and as I accidentally found out reset the controller. The controller does seem to survive a power reset and retains it’s settings without issue. The terminal blocks supplied I quite like also.Given the price I can only suggest this product for a hobby electronics buff that knows what they are doing. The first unit I tried only one button to set up the controller worked. I took it apart to find that there was a little post on the back that pushes against the PCB so you can apply force to the buttons. The post was too long in effect pushing one button “on” all the time. The case and PCB was designed for 4 mounting screws that were absent.The power rating on the back of 10A or 1500W are way off. The relay rating is 7A or 5A at 120/240 respectively and I doubt the wires included would handle that kind of power.I have to knock off a point for the power rating and a point for missing screws. However when you consider the price I have to add back 1/2 point for value so 3.5. For certain embedded applications or assuming you use it as a kit of parts it could be ideal.