The Original, Patented, UL/CSA Approved Manual Transfer Switch

The components are well built The switch itself seems heavy duty Got some heft to it. It’s built with copper wire. Not aluminum like the others.The unit as a whole is UL/ETL certified. Very important to be code compliant for both safety, inspection and homeowners insurance. Comes with an offset nipple and wire nuts. Nice tidy looking box made in the USA by a master electrician.That said there are some sticking points.Know your generator. Either a bonded or floating neutral. It comes setup, as is, for a bonded generator. If you have a floating generator, then theres a bit of rewiring, but it’s easy. NEVER USE A BONDING PLUG. Illegal and dangerous to life and property.The instructions could be more DIY friendly. They seem to be written for other electricians. The company does have a YouTube channel showing installation, but they could be clearer. Customer service is very helpful.The pig tails are about 24” long 12 gauge STRANDED copper. Most likely to clamp onto the female spades in the build. Stranded copper can be difficult to work with for the DIYer when using wire nuts. I used lever style wire connectors. Much easier. Also if connecting to an outlet, make sure to use one that uses side wiring. Can’t use stranded with the terminal screws.The instructions state that the wire connections need to be made outside the box. This is due to the components (inlet, switch, breaker) have spade connectors and take up all the room in the box. No room for wire nuts and extra wire. That’s why you get the offset nipple. You’ll need a metal handy box with a cover. You CAN NOT use a plastic box. The wires from the panel have to pass through the switch metal box and into the handy box to make the connections. From the handy box, out to the load. The outer sheath of the Romex has to be removed of the length inside of the switch box into the 2nd box. The exposed wires have to be encased in the offset nipple.However there maybe a problem depending on your particular situation, like mine.I was tapping into the line in the basement to my refrigerator. The wires are all exposed but very little slack. Since the wires from the panel need to pass through the switch box into the handy box that’s a problem. Not enough wire to work with. You’ll either need to run a longer wire to the load (outlet, heating system). That can be costly and a pain. Easiest option is to use wire butt connectors and lengths of wire to extend them. In my case I added an outlet in the basement just outside the switch box. Using pig tails off of the outlet, I made the wire connections in the switch box adding a 4” box extension ring on the switch box. This gives plenty of room for the wire connections and components in the one box. And it’s a lot easier. Costs the same as a handy box and cover.A little preplanning goes a long way. And plan on a trip or two or three or more to the home improvement store. Like every other home project.I connected one to the circuit to my refrigerator and an other one to my furnace. Both work flawlessly. I tested both hookups with generator for 15 mins to insure it’s done right.Very pleased with the product as a whole.

I ordered this transfer switch to connect my Jackery 2000+ power station to my oil fired boiler in the event of a power outage. I saw this featured on several you tube videos along with a less expensive way to do this but decided to go with the EZ model transfer switch due to it being well defined specifically built for this purpose. After reading the instructions for attaching to the appliance with a floating neutral generator and or power station, I made the modification to the switch, followed the wiring schematic and plugged it in for verification of a correct installation and low and behold it kept shutting down the output of the Jackery. I then called Kevin at EZ generator switch and explained my problem. Kevin, who is the creator of this product diagnosed my issue very quickly. Problem was my misunderstanding the install diagram and had two wires reversed. I made the change which took about 1 minute, turned the power back on, connected to the jackery and it worked with no problem. How many companies allow you to reach the product designer directly with one call, no recording or extension question, ect. Dialed the number and Kevin answered the phone. Can't beat that for customer service. This product is extremely well built and supported. Strongly recommend this item which is a great value for the price.

Was looking for a way to run my gas furnace during a power outage. I wanted the option to use my Jackery power station or a gas generator.I saw many videos online showing different ways to achieve my objective, and the EZ Generator Switch seemed to be the most attractive and efficient method I came across. The simplicity of installation was another huge plus.Jackery power stations have a floating neutral. So as per the EZ Switch instructions, I rewired the EZ. I mounted the switch on the wall next to my furnace shutoff switch and connected the EZ wires inside the shutoff switch box. I replaced the plastic box that the shutoff switch was in for a metal box. If I had to do it over, I would have gotten a bigger box for the shutoff switch. The box I purchased made it very difficult to fit all the wires inside.Anyway, once everything was mounted and connected, I ran a cable from the EZ to my Jackery 1000 Pro. Happily, everything worked flawlessly.I saw one online video installation in which the EZ Switch was being used with the Jackery Explorer 1000. The furnace wouldn’t fire up and displayed an error. The guy ended up using a neutral grounding plug to solve the problem. I didn’t have that same problem, and I think it’s because I rewired the EZ for the floating neutral.Just for reference, here is my testing scenario.My home temperature was 73 degrees. Once I had the EZ set up and the Jackery 1000 Pro connected, I set the thermostat to 75 degrees. While on standby, the furnace was drawing about 5 watts. The next stage, as the furnace started engaging, the furnace showed a total draw of about 270 watts. Once the furnace was fully engaged and heating, it was drawing about 650 watts.To begin the test, my Jackery had a 75% charge. It took the furnace 15 minutes to warm the house from 73 to 75 degrees, and the furnace was drawing a steady 650 or so watts for the entire 15 minutes. Once the furnace completed the cycle, my Jackery was at 60%. By the way, the outside temperature was in the mid fifties, and it was late afternoon.The furnace didn’t come back on for about three hours. So the Jackery 1000 Pro should give me a good bit of backup power time, even if the outside temperature was lower. Nevertheless, to be well covered I purchased the Jackery 2000 Plus.