TotalBoat434282 TotalFair Marine Epoxy Fairing Compound for Fiberglass, Wood, Aluminum and Steel (2 Pint Kit)

First let me say that I've never done fiberglass repair before buying this product. An accident resulted in a large crack that separated a section of fiberglass on our RV. After getting the fiberglass itself put back together from building it back up from the back side, I needed something easy to sand and paint for filling the crack on the visible side. This was what I decided to go with because of what appeared to be an easy to understand mixing and application process. The instructions seemed almost too simple - just mix it one to one and it's ready to use when it's green. It was so easy to mix and apply that I was honestly surprised. Sanding was easy as well, and it shaped up very nicely. It accepted the primer perfectly and made for a successful repair job. It has been six months since doing that project, and it still looks great with no signs of cracking. The RV repair shop who helped me with the mechanical damage from the accident couldn't believe that I actually repaired the fiberglass damage myself, lol.So anyway, while I can't recommend taking on a major repair project with no experience or professional supervision other than a couple of YouTube videos - that's exactly what I did, and this product is a big part of why I was able to do it. I recommend it 100%.

This stuff is easy to mix and mold to what you need. It stays workable for about 15min. Cleans up easy. Best buy for the money.

One-to-one mix is simple to measure. It mixes easily and flows out smoothly on the surface.I was using it on soft pine and it was just a bit harder to sand than the pine but in my case that was a big advantage. I found that by using 40 or 60 grit for the first sanding, you could shape the surface as needed and then use the next layer of filler to fill the gaps to quickly get the contour you need.

Great stuff

I had to sand off the bottom of my dagger board. The fiberglass was broken was going to be difficult to fiberglass it as it is hollow above the wood so I’m giving this a shot i’m hoping this will be harder than the fiberglass when done ,If I can get it on thick enough ill try a few coats I’ll see if I can get it back into the original shape, I used acetone after sanding and before I applied it I’m hoping it does the job I put it directly on the wood without any fiberglass and merged it into the fiberglass. Hopefully, I can update it in a couple weeks and let you know if it worked.

This is my second batch used in the restoration of a 23ft Jersey Beach Skiff. Compound is easy to mix, 1:1 ratio. Goes on smooth with the use of flexible plastic scrapers. Dry's to a sandable surface with in a few hours and I've been able paint over this compound within a few days. I've only used this on wood hull and deck surfaces and it's worked wonderfully to smooth out dings, gouges and some areas that had been over sanded leaving dish shaped depressions on the hull. Solid product!

Easy to mix, easy to work with, sanded lovely! So far the spots I patched have not shown through the paint. I did “prime” the wood with penetrating epoxy from total boat. I did not know before I bought it, but if the wood you are going to patch is soft or “punky” you can brush on one or more coats of penetrating epoxy, then when that is “tacky” you can fill with the fairing compound and let the cure together and they will bind together! I feel like they should advertise this option more. It worked really good for me, as I bought the penetrating epoxy for another part of the boat, but after reading this option decided to mix a little to prime my fill spots too

I used this product as part of a repair for deep gouges on my jet ski hull. The compound goes on nicely using standard filler application tools. It does have a long working time, so you don't have to worry about the compound getting clumpy before you are done applying it. Plan on letting it set up overnight because it takes hours to harden. The hardened products seems to stick well, and has a good amount of flex. I knocked the high spots down with 80 grit, then smoothed with 400 then 800 for a nice surface.I mixed more compound than I needed so I formed the remainder in a 2 inch long roll about 1/2 inch high. The hardened roll flexed a good amount and was difficult to break by hand. I was also surprised to find that it adhered very well to the polyethylene mixing tray and applicators. If it sticks to poly, it will stick to anything.