Time-Sert® M14x1.25 Spark Plug Thread Repair kit p/n 4412E-111

Repaired a 2012 Honda fit with the head on that blew the #2 cylinder spark plug and threads clean out. Did it blind on the back of the engine working by a cell phone and a bore scope. Tool set is very high quality, and it works awesome. I was able to repair the threads in about 45 minutes, most dealers charge 3.5 hours to do the same job. My only caution is take your time, and check your work often. The seat cutter did fit all the way down inside the spark plug tube, but all I had to do was back the tap out with a 3/8 square drive 8 point socket after I cut the seats and the cutter came right out with it (the tubes are pretty deep). Absolutely recommend this tool to anyone, its the right tool for the job. Also comes with a decent plastic case to keep all the tools in.

Blew a plug out of my Toyota Sequoia 4.7V8. Total repair time about an hour. The TineSert set is expensive compared to the cheap knurled top inserts but they work and don't come out. I've had the knurled- top inserts come out. It's still cheaper than pulling the head! Only issue is that on the deep plug wells of this motor, the seat cutter is almost impossible to remove from the stem of the tap. You can't reach far enough down to get it even with a magnet tool. The supplied driver tool can't unscrew the tap because the seat cutter is on it. I used a 3/8 drive 6"extension backwards. The female on the extension fit over the male square of the tap and I was able to unscrew the entire thing and remove it. Make sure your piston is all the way down before you start so you don't hit it. Use lots of grease on the tap to lubricate and to catch the metal chips, take the tap out a couple times during the threading process to clean the chips and put on new grease. I used red loctite on the insert even though it didn't say specifically to do so. Make sure you oil the insert installer. The insert only screws on the installer a couple turns, that's normal. Once the insert bottoms out on the head the tool will thread through the insert and expand it to lock into the head. After it starts turning easier stop and remove the tool so you don't drop it into the cylinder.

This is my second time using TimeSert (did my caliper bolts a few years back and have had zero issues) and it's been no different than my initial experience. While the price may seem high, it's worth every single penny. I used this on my 05 Acura TL and it was the perfect tool for the job. If you're not taking the head off, I would HIGHLY suggest getting some grease. WD-40 will work, but it fails to catch all the metal from cutting. Before you start cutting, make sure your engine is on the compression stroke for the cylinder you're rethreading. You want the valves to be closed for when you blow any potential shavings out. Liberally fill the gaps on the step tap with grease and put a decent blob on the tip as well. Cut 4-5 quarter turns and back it out. Clean the tool, re-grease, and do 4-5 more quarter turns. Repeat these steps until there's no more cutting resistance. Doing it this way will ensure barely any metal gets into the cylinder. If you need a video demonstration, look up realfixesrealfast on YouTube, he's got a great three part series. Given the clearance in some engine bays, you may have better luck using a ratchet with a 13mm socket to turn the bits. After cutting is complete, use a rag to remove any excess grease from the hole. Use compressed air with a very small hose to get down into the cylinder and blow out any loose shavings. Use a hose that is about half the size of the hole so any potential debris will have room to get out. Be very thorough with this step. If you used enough grease and didn't get too greedy with the turns, there should be very little metal in the cylinder. Go slow, be patient, and this will fix your problem 100%. Best of luck!

BEWARE - This product does work, but be careful and be warned. I used it on a 2007 Honda Accord and everything went smooth with the install. Make sure the cylinder is down away from the plug. I used bearing grease and repeated removed it to catch filings. I repeated took measurements to be extra careful and I also had a scope camera. I used a vacuum and ran the car with the sparkplug out to remove any filings I may have missed. The cylinder held vacuum and spark plug worked in the new threads ... BUT ... from what I can tell some fine filings went out the exhaust into the ERG value (no big deal to clean or replace) and clogged an ERG orifice plate in the intake (ugg rotating misfires). That is a big deal to fix. So be warned if doing with the heads on. You may want to remove the ERG valve when starting up.

My number three spark plug on my V6 Odyssey blew through the threads and I was terrified that I would have to take it to a shop to add a thread insert since this is a cylinder against the fire wall. After watching a few videos on the different options, I decided this was the best and I made a great choice. Even as straight forward as this kit is to use, I had a question for the company and they replied very quickly with an accurate answer, plus a few other tips to make sure I completed my install correctly. The first one took several hours, but if needed again, it should only take about a half an hour. Super simple and difficult to mess up if you follow the instructions. Great product!