Dorman 924-001 Suspension Subframe Bushing Kit Compatible with Select Chrysler / Dodge / Eagle Models

saved me money

These aftermarket bushing are much less than oem. Replaced all 4 in my garage in less than 2 hours. If you don't have a rusted out car it's very easy.

These subframe bushings are a decent replacment for the first generation (1993-1997) Dodge/Chrysler/Eagle LH cars such as the Intrepid. I believe second generation LH cars use different bushings. I have only found three makers of these aftermarket subframe bushings. The Mopar factory bushings are no longer made, so old stock bushings may only be available through very few local Chrysler/Dodge dealers and online Chrysler parts stores. Also with those OEM Mopar parts, I think the parts catalog requires you to order more than one part number to obtain the full assembly included in this kit and the other aftermarket ones (has both upper & lower cushions plus both metal parts). The Mopar parts may be expensive.Unfortunately, the aftermarket cushions themselves are not quite as firm as the Mopar OEM ones, and I think the firmness also varies a bit between the three aftermarket brands that I've seen.The installation instructions in the factory service manual, Haynes, and Chilton manuals seem more involved that what is actually necessary to remove and install the new bushings (for example you don't have to lift up the whole engine support cradle). You can search on "subframe bushings" on the DodgeIntrepid.net website for posts on the replacment methods. One important thing is to use a lot of penetrating lubricant like PB Blaster on top of the captive frame nut holding the bolt and let it sit overnight before trying to remove the center bolt in the subframe bushing (see the posts on that website). There can be some light rust holding the bolt to the nut. (The captive nut has a flange at the base and is moveable fore/aft/left/right inside a little frame to accoun for slight adjustments of the whole cradle, but the nut is restrained from rotating.) If you can access the nut above the frame, try to wire brush it first before spraying the lube. After it penetrates overnight, spray some more lube and work the bolt lightly back and forth first. You can also try the cold "Freeze Off" spray on the bolt head which sometimes works to free it from the nut. Don't force the bolt or it could cause the captive nut's flange to be rounded off and the nut will then just spin (then you've got a problem) .Unless you are experienced in working on cars, it may be better to pay a mechanic to install subframe bushings, particularly if the bolt and nut are heavily rusted. But check with them first before buying the bushings since they may only install their own ordered parts for their service warranty coverage. It is a lot easier for a mechanic to do the job with the car on a lift than on jackstands and access the nut to hold it fast if necessary. If the nut does break off, a new nut can be welded in solid in the center of the frame hole, or there are two Mopar numbered frame repair pieces with the capitve nut (left and right sides) shown in the Mopar parts catalog can be welded in, but that is big job. Those two Mopar repair pieces also may no longer be available; you'd just have to check with local or online Mopar parts dealers.Couple more tips:There is a retaining washer on the bottom of the original bolt threads that will hold the bolt up after it is loose from the nut. I think this is just so the bolt and the sleeve it fits into don't fall on your head. This washer is often rusted to almost nothing, but may still hold the bolt up. So you have to put downward pressure on the bolt and unscrew it to free it and the sleeve from the washer. If the washer stays in place, just pull it out the side; you probably don't need to replace it with another if it is badly rusted, but captive washers are available at some hardware stores.For more rust resistance, you may want to remove the new metal parts from the cushions and do another coat of paint (Rustoleum), either black or clear since the finish on the aftermarket parts may be thin. Then use a very light coating of anti-seize along the whole length of the bolt, torque to somewhat less than the factory spec (standard practice to account for the anti-seize lubricating effect). And if you can, check and re-torque to that same reading in a few months of driving. There is info online on the specific rules of thumb for reducing the bolt torque slightly when applying anti-sieze.

These came on time and were just as described. Thank You!You will need to order 4 if you have a 97 Dodge Intrepid!

Good product

Ordered two for the rear front of my car. Arrived on time fitted great and working great, right price and I will be buying more for the other two on the front. Great product.

it is a great product to bye put them on my car and fit in there perfect with no problems

Exactly what I needed to fix the problem.