Japanese Wood Block Plane KANNA 40mm Carenter's Tool Double Edge Senkichi

This little plane is well made. Have yet too make see through wood strips. LOL Have used Japanese chisels and saws for a while now and love them for precise cuts and clean up on joints. The plane needed no honing. Right out of the box it cleaned up several pieces of finger joinery faster than using sand paper. Haven't used enough to establish how long they will stay sharp before needing a honing or complete sharpening. If they are as good as the saws and chisels it should be a while. As always, mileage may vary.

I tapped the blade in very lightly and used this to get paper thin wood curls. Leaves a glossy, smooth finish. Tap the hammer on the wood, not the metal to back it out. Here's the weird part: on my other anglo-german-american type plains I tape the other end of the plane (the wood) to seat the blade and make it stick out a little farther. On this plane (and I've seen tons of videos on Youtube of people doing it this way) I just LIGHTLY tapped the blade downward to get it to stick out more. This plane has no pins and no wedge: it's just the blade against the wood in a very tight fit. This is how an elderly Japanese woodworker on a Kotaro Tanaka video did it as well. You'll never hurt the blade by tapping the blunt end of it--then again you'll never crack the wood shoulders of a plane by tapping on the front or back of the plane, LOL. I own a bunch of planes now: various old metal, huge two-foot antique wood ones I restored, a Hock/Krenov kit I built years ago, and now this Japanese plane which produces curls as nicely as the others. You pull instead of push. It's very light weight and responsive. I tend to run planes more side to side, left to right on thinner pieces of wood as opposed to pushing straight away from my body and this allows that technique as well. It's just like the photo: sticker, single blade with no chip breaker and light wood. Really clean and simple. The sticker says to tap blade to extend and tap end of wood to retract. Tap SOFTLY: you won't hurt the blade, but you might theoretically, break the wood shoulders. Tape, test, tap, test, tap, test and I was making shavings. Nice shavings. The only way to get a better deal is to: buy old blades at garage sales and build your own (which is fun). Why use a plane? Because ALL sandpaper leaves scratches. It's true that finer and finer grades of sandpaper leaves finer and harder to see and feel scratched, but why not just swoosh the plane once and get a glossy, smooth, no tear-out, non-fuzzy, no scratch mirror finish! It's way faster, the curls smell nice as opposed to messy, unhealthy sawdust and the finish is easily proven to be smoother. Look at it! Feel it! Look at it with a magnifying glass! Glass smoothness instead of fuzzy matte sanded finish you have to put a THICK glossy chemical finish on to make look nice. Try this: run a plane across the edge of a board. It looks great! Now sand that glassy edge with the finest grade sandpaper you have handy: it'll make it look worse! Planer is faster, easier, cheaper, smoother cleaner than paper. Sawdust is for saws, not fine finishing tools. Sandpaper makes me sneeze, planes release the smell of the wood (even old wood). Nice! Mike from Detroit

Totally worth it. I've been a craftsman for over 30 years - I've had my own one man wood and metal fabrication shop since 2004. I make a lot of my own hand and power tools (wood lathe, table saw and belt sanders). I currently use the hell out of my little Stanley block plane and an imported Chinese jack plane similar to a Stanley number 4 in the construction of recurve, bamboo backed archery bows and knife handles for my hand forged knives. I've been meditating on building some hand planes out of some really hard maple scraps I have that are around 2"x2"x10. I'm thinking that they'll end up either Japanese style or modified Krenov style. When I saw this for under 10 bucks, I thought it would give me some ideas at the very least when I finally make my own. It arrived 3 days after my online purchase. It arrived SCARY sharp. Now, among other things, I make hand forged knives with a semi traditional Japanese charcoal pit forge (which, of course, I made myself). I know how to make and sharpen a knife so it will push cut through paper. The iron in this plane arrived as sharp as I could get it with my dead flat granite sharpening slab and sharpening up to 1200 grit sandpaper. The wood looks like Japanese white oak (shiroi kashi) but not as hard or high quality as my Japanese white oak bokken. That being said, there are no knots or imperfections that I can see. I can't dig my fingernail into my white oak bokken but I can, a little, with this plane. I've included some pics of the one I got. You can see in one of the pics where I dug my fingernail in. Overall, this little plane seems much more delicate than my antique Stanley block plane and, I think, will require a more delicate touch when using it. However, it seems to have a very high quality of craftsmanship in its construction and I suspect it will be replacing my old trusty block plane for most jobs. Bottom line: if you need a block plane, I recommend this one wholeheartedly. Get it, then increase your skill level if necessary and use a light touch when using it.

This is a decent little plane that gets used quite often. It is not super fancy, no laminated blade or anything like that, just a single piece of tool steel. It does, however, function quiet well right out of the box. It can be a little stiff to adjust at first, as the plane body grips the blade quite firmly. Certainly not disappointed. It is a simple, functional tool. Bought two so I could build a chamfer plane out of the second one.

Took me about 10mins to set this up right out of the box and it was shaving long thin ribbons of construction grade pine like cream cheese. Frankly, I’m amazed at its effectiveness and simplicity. It’s well made and fitted. The iron is made of very good quality steel.

I had no idea what a Japanese plane was, but the price seemed right. Once I learned how to adjust the blade and to pull the plane rather than push I did OK. Does not have a chip insert. Project became very smooth with this plane's use, Make sure that the blade is level.

Works well for small jobs.

Corta el viento

Muy ligero, pequeño, fácil de sujetar. Ideal para detalles en piezas muy pequeñas. Completamente inuril para cepillar superficies pues lo delgado de la cuchilla y del bloque hacen que no pueda mantenerse estable. EDICION 04/06/2020 Me he percatado que la "pequeña" cuchilla de este cepillo es para mi sorpresa, muy buena. Es confuso porque a pesar de ser una cuchilla evidentemente cortada por troquel, se puede ver en el bisel el acero laminado... el laminado de aceros es una técnica común de los herreros de herramienta de Japón pero estos usualmente no son troquelados. Sea lo que sea, es un buen acero y pagaría más por la pura cuchilla que todo lo que me costó el cepillo con todo y envío a México... El dai (el cuerpo del cepillo) es bastante mediocre; la cuchilla es la buena.

Non la uso per farmi la Barba, non è vero. Si tratta di una Ironia che racchiude la mia Sodddisfazione per un oggetto dal taglio Completo e Preciso. Non ho dovuto affilarla, andava bene cosi. Non ho dovuto rettificarla. Sono un fanatico della Lavorazione Artigianale del Legno, ho decine di Pialle, Pressoche tutte le Pialle sono state acquistate qui in Amazon. Mi- mancava una Pialla dal taglio sottile, per Affinare e per tagliare foglietti di legno in lavori di finitura di spessori sottilissimi. Questa pialla mi ha convinto subito fin dal suo primo uso. Ovviamente occorre saper affilare la Lama quando servirà. Ho imparato a farlo. Giudizio importante: questa Pialla della Tradizione Giapponese la ho impegata su legni Duri e Morbidi e su legni dalla Fibra Densa e Uniforme (come il Faggio), sul Frassino (legno Semiduro, dalla Resistenza Meccanica Elevata). Eseguo sempre una prova delle nuove Pialle su FAGGIO e FRASSINO. Come mai? Lo spiego. Il Frassino è ottimamente lavorabile con le sue fibre dritte e anche piallabile, ma ha una resistenza meccanica elevatissima (è il legno delle Ruote dei Carri) e tende a spaccarsi se lavorato e forato male. Se una Pialla ha una buona Lama il Frassino si lavora come il Burro. Se la Lama non è buona il Frassino passa da un legno lavorabile ad una schifezza di scheggiamento ingestibile. Anche il Faggio si presta ad essere Fresato e quindi Piallato bene, ma se la Lama non è buona il Faggio cosa fa? Si apiccica alla Lama: Eseguito il Test FAGGIO/FRASSINO... posso dire di avere una Pialla per lavoro di Taglio "a foglio di carta velina"... con la quale potermi fare anche la Barba!!

Like several other reviewers, I too received a plane with a 'welded in' blade and resorted to wiggling the blue from side to side with the aid of a 3kg lump hammer! I suggest NOT bothering with any kind of rubber or plastic hammer if you have a very stuck blade as the shock absorption is too much and actually drives the blade further in. A good solid wooden mallet should suffice in most cases and lump hammer as a final resort when you're ready to throw the blasted thing under a truck! Once I had removed the blade setting up was easy and I have never done anything like this before and I'm a 60 year old girly with an amateur interest in carpentry and woodcraft. If I can do it anyone can. I found some really helpful info online which I want to pass on because it took forever to find the CORRECT method to set this plane up properly. The blade of this plane is very good quality but NOT a standard kanna blade. You will see when you get it out of the 'dai' (base) that it has a curved hollow right across the bottom of the blade on the 'back' side (the side with the lettering) unlike a standard blade which has a 'U' shaped hollow. This is the 'Ura', a hollow which forms a narrow surface at the front and sides and is the only bit of this side requiring sharpening or flattening. It is called a 'low maintenance' blade and does away with the need to carry out 'Ura dashi' - tapping out the blade with a hammer when the edge becomes worn down. Ideal for beginners actually but not as ideal as some instructions with the plane which would be REALLY helpful! Have a look at www.tablinstore.info and www.bigsandwoodworking.com both sites have info about this type of blade and how to set up and sharpen it. Do NOT try and flatten the back of the blade as instructed on all the other sites because this is not a standard blade it is 'low maintenance' designed to be as simple as possible for the novice and must be set up differently. This is an excellent quality tool but requires a fair bit of finishing as this is where the production saving has been made.. It is not necessary to do any of this finishing if you don't want to because it works brilliantly straight out of the box but if you want get the most from it or learn about Japanese tools I recommend spending some time doing the 'tuning' - it's not difficult, once you find the right instructions, and personally I found it enjoyable and rewarding. The tool is very, very robust and very forgiving so you can get it wrong quite a bit without causing serious damage. Just be patient and be sure you understand what you're doing before you start. I gave it a few hours of my time and now I have a professional looking tool and feel very proud of myself! For info about setting up the 'Dai' the wooden block of the plane, try JapaneseToolsAustralia on YouTube, easy to follow 5 part video demonstration of the setting up process with a cheap plane and an ill fitting blade! Perfect! Loads of other videos here of course but this was particularly relevant. So if like me, you've received a troublesome item and you're keen but basically clueless - have a go and surprise yourself! Hope someone finds this review helpful and if so please help others find it by pointing at it.