Hikig 2 Player Arcade Games Controller DIY Parts Kit for Windows Games and Raspberry Pi,2x 5PIN Joystick + 20x LED Buttons + Zero Delay USB Encoder, Color: Red & Blue

This is a really easy replacement mod-kit for your arcade cabinet or old ArcadeUp1 cabinets, as comes with everything you need. Two Joysticks, Led Blue & Red Buttons (even spares), the easy cable connectors, cable ties, USB convert boards and instructions. I'm delighted how my unit turned out and the joysticks have that old retro arcade feel now too. I think of Arcade cabinets as toys, so no point spanding a fortune on your toy, this is an ideal pack, for creating your arcade, for old PC or RetroPie Arcade projects, without breaking the budget.

Ordered these for my husband for his home made pub game cabinet he made. He said they work great, have recently been battling him at crossy road using them

Really good quality product. Setup was very simple. There was a lot of unnecessary plastic in the packaging (each individual button was in its own bag + bubble wrap) but very happy with the actual product

Used for modifying a SF A1UP and these are perfect. Sticks have Sanwa brand stamped on them, unsure if these are copies or genuine, either way they’re very good quality

The buttons and sticks work as advertised and they were easy to setup and use for my RetroPie project. More or less plug'n'play. I had a couple of issues with the product when i received them, but the seller was quick and efficient with helping me, resolving any issues I had.

Built a Retropie games table. Had these in for several weeks and all seems good. Simple to wire up. Good brightness

These are really easy to assemble and setup if you use what comes in the set. The problem is that the buttons are terrible. They just aren’t arcade buttons so should never be used in an arcade build or 1up mod. They really are that bad. They are smaller and have poor sloppy travel when pressed. The plastic also feels poor quality. The joysticks are good Sanwa clones. They are good and usable but don’t make up for the buttons. It’s worth mentioning that the ease of setup actually works against you if you do what I did and then try to use Sanwa buttons. This kit uses 3 pin plugs at both ends for connecting each button. That isn’t compatible so requires a lot of wire cutting and reconnecting etc. Basically, avoid kits with light up buttons like these. You will want real arcade buttons.

I have wanted to build an arcade cabinet for over a decade but never quite got around to it. A few months ago I built a retropie and then a few days before Christmas I just happened to stumble on Streetfighter II 3/4 full size cabinets for sale on offer in Smyths Toys. A quick bit of research later and I had a list of kit required to convert the unit to the retropie, including these buttons. I removed the old buttons and joysticks, drilled a pair of new 30mm holes (the R/Pi needs one extra for each player) and fitted these switches. For a start they're a perfect fit but they have a single 3 pin connector which means no confusion between power for the built in LED's and the button action. Another massive benefit was that the joysticks unscrewed from their supplied mounting plates and the original ones were screwed in their place as a direct swap so no problem with alignment and no need to drill any pilot holes. Another advantage is that there are arrows on the original plates so you don't get the joysticks inverted by accident. It is really important to wire up both sets of buttons identically otherwise you can end up with one set interfering with the other or with mismatched buttons. Once everything is wired, plug in the supplied USB cables and connect to the r/pi. One last important step is that if you had other controllers configured the r/pi may not find these. I found it best to connect a keyboard or SSH and clear the controller configuration. Once everything was built they work really beautifully well as well as looking fantastic! Really worth every penny.

The product was well packaged, the joysticks are good and the USB encoders excellent with the correct 3 pin cables which are far easier to wire up. However I was sent 20 24mm buttons instead of 16 28mm and 4 24mm buttons which was very frustrating. (Given the current COVID-19 situation I am not keen to go out to return the product.) I used 4 as start buttons. Either way the buttons are very poor quality from gameplay perspective they are not nearly as good as the buttons that come stock with the Arcade1UP cabinet.

Einfach zu installieren, alle Knöpfe funktionieren und leuchten, fühlen sich gut an, leuchten schön, gut verarbeitet, nix zu meckern. 28er Loch. Anleitung ok, Joystick ist richtig ausgerichtet wenn der Anschluss Stecker an der unteren Seite ist. Habe dieses Set in mein DIY-Arcade Automaten eingebaut, bin voll zufrieden, würde ich wieder kaufen.

I was looking to upgrade my Mayflash F300 and my wireless 8Bitdo N30 stock buttons to something better. Stock buttons were "mushy" and not that fun to play with. Stock joysticks felt a bit "loose" and not very clicky or precise. These Hikig buttons/sticks are NOT PERFECT, but they are an insane value for the money you pay. I feel like I'm 90% of the way to playing on an actual arcade machine from Japan. The buttons are very snappy and responsive and have a subtle click to them. They fire with very nice precision. The sticks are nice and stiff and clicky. The sticks are high-quality Sanwa JLF clones with a stiffer spring. These sticks are designed specifically to play 2D fighters and will feel unresponsive on games requiring directional switching like Shmups and Pacman... because the "engage distance", "deadzone", and "throw" are all rather large by design. I decided to make 4 modifications to make them more playable as a general arcade stick: 1. Oversized actuator (reduces deadzone, engage distance, and throw) 2. Shorter shaft (taken from Mayflash stick) 3. Lighter springs (taken from Mayflash stick) 4. Bat top (allows you to maintain a natural grip on the stick when its down in your lap) That being said, once I installed these I had a nice long arcade play session with some friends and I was IMMERSED. I stopped thinking about the controller in my lap and just zoned into the game. It felt like I was in a Japanese arcade. After installing the oversized actuators... I ABSOLUTELY LOVE playing with these sticks. They are a dream come true. I cannot recommend these enough FOR THE PRICE. Sure, I could have spent $100 for OEM parts. But these stick DO NOT feel cheap. You will get your money's worth and then some. INSTALLATION: If you want to install the buttons on a Mayflash, you have to separate the wires from the 3-pin connectors and insert the signal and ground wires only into the Molex connector on the USB board inside the Mayflash (you don't plug the LED wire into anything). Use a safety pin to pry the wires loose from the Molex connectors in both the Mayflash and the 3 pin connected to the Hikig button. To install the joystick, simply connect the 5-pin connector to the 5-pin socket on the USB board next to the four 2-pin slots that the stock joystick is plugged into. It's laborious and not recommended, but these parts will work!

These have been in my modded Arcade1up for over a year. My 9 year old, 12 year old, and 2 year old all beat the buttons like they owe them money. I've yet to see a button malfunction, become less sensitive, become sticky, or have an LED fail. For the price of these things, you can't beat it. And the USB encoder just works instantly. If it ever gets unplugged I just plug it back in and there's no setup. Love em!

Utilizzati per modificare un cabinato da sala giochi sostituendo i pulsanti e le leve originali con qualcosa di migliore senza spendere una fortuna. Questi "Hikig" sanno il fatto loro, grazie al design a vite è possibile installarli anche in fori preesistenti non perfettamente a misura, inoltre i vari connettori per i codificatori USB hanno una linguetta che impedisce di collegarli nel senso sbagliato. Vi arrivano 20 pulsanti divisi in due colori, rossi e blu, tutti dotati di led colorato che prende l'alimentazione direttamente da USB. Oltre ai pulsanti troverete due levette a microswitch di buona fattura, tutti i cavi necessari per il collegamento e le due board di codifica USB per il giocatore 1 e il giocatore 2. Allegato c'era anche un foglietto che indica esattamente il cablaggio dei pulsanti. Dopo un po' di testing devo dire che sono pienamente soddisfatto: non saranno lontanamente i migliori sul mercato, ma per il prezzo irrisorio migliorano sensibilmente l'esperienza del gioco base, garantendo precisione di movimento migliore, inoltre possono essere collegati a qualsiasi dispositivo abbia un output USB come un PC