eSUN PETG Filament, Blue, 1.55 kg

Many reviews on here are stating that the filament is very hard to deal with, and they blame the filament for not having adhesion and awful prints.After 3 days of troubleshooting I finally was able to get this filament to stick, however it was not the filaments fault (Though I was ready to return because everything I tried was not working.)Things to troubleshoot1. What slicer program are you using? I had a terrible time with Simplify3D. I recently purchased the program, thinking it would make my prints look beautiful. It did the opposite. After many hours of tweaking, I found the the slicer was spotting the filament and not producing any good results with this filament. I changed to Cura, and Eureka! Was beautiful. However on the 2nd layer the adhesion was awful, ultimately failing the print.2. WATCH YOUR TEMPERATURE This is huge, I cannot stress this enough that this filament is extremely vulnerable to temperature. A 20 degrees drop in temp, with result in failure, even when the filament says it is ok at that temp. Case and example, I was running 245 - 250 degrees and getting beautiful results. However due to settings in both slicer programs I was using, the temp would drop dramatically to 225-230 degrees. Normally with PLA this would be not a huge deal, however with petg and this filament, it will result is awful adhesion and a print failing. After adjusting the programs to have a stable 250 during prints, a stable adhesive print.3. Research good adhesion Do not try to simply use the buildplate! Your print will not stick, and it will fail. I order a printinz.com buildplate, and it works wonderfully. However I researched many other options including glass, buildtak, painters tape, etc all will work. Find what is best for you!4. STRINGY This filament is extremely stringy. In most PLA, you can adjust settings and almost eliminate stringing. With this filament, you will have some stringing. However the trade off, is you have a print that is much more flexible, and durable. I can attest to this, as I not only was rough with the print, I drilled through aggressively. There was very little give, and it took time to drill that hole, this is wonderful! PLA would easily cracked, and broke, but this filament holds up! Make your mod parts with this filament, especially if you have an Anet A8 like myself.5. Cooling I ultimately fixed my issue. What had happened for me, is that the nozzle was being cooled drastically. Both slicer programs, were running my nozzle fan at 100% after the first layer. Because I had awesome cooling (due to a mod air duct) the nozzle would drop 20 degrees, destroying adhesion. This threw me off, because after I had fixed the printer to have a stable 245 - 250 degrees, it was still dropping. Please watch your cooling.6. Bed Level This is pretty much a given, but you want to make sure your bed is level. Glass, or a buildplate designed to be level, will help extremely. PLA can be ok with out a level bed for the most part, this filament however is a little bit more picky.7. Heated Bed I recommend a bed temperature of 80 - 87 degrees. Having an Anet A8, I encountered immediately a wire melting on my heated bed. Because the printer came with a poorly insulated wire, and a loose connector, the bed lost its power. If you have an Anet A8, I recommend buying 14 AWG silicone wires, and soldering them to your heated bed directly. Replace the wires it came with. The temp control wires should be just fine, however soldering them will also help. If you do not have an Anet A8, please just watch your heated plate temp. Again research is your best friend.I love this filament! Once I finally troubleshooted it and figured out how to get it to work. It was beautiful, better than PLA by far. I ordered a second roll, and also a magenta color.Be sure to troubleshoot everything before chalking it up, that the filament is bad. Yes it is very picky to temp, and how it is put down. However the trade off is a much stronger and flexible plastic.

UPDATED REVIEW:THE BADI've had to untangle/loosen the filament multiple times as it is stuck together (a strand under the next strand). I was away once and it was stuck, so half the print didn't happen.Additionally, it doesn't reliably stick to my print bed (blue painters tape). I have to print with rafting, and even then it may peel back a stripe of filament it just layer down which ruins the print at later one.THE FIXES TO MAKE THIS GOOD:My fixes for that was setting the spool further away but so that the filament was lined up directly with the filament guide. I generally have this right next to my box, and have it pull somewhat perpendicular to the machine which would give it an even feed from my spool holder. Apparently this is picky enough that it needs to be pulled straight out.Additionally I had to recalibrate by printbed and nozzle to be much closer and at a higher temp (255). This seems to have fixed the issues.THE GOODThis doesn't have an odor like ABS. +1 starThis has a little more give than PLA. +1 starThe color and slight transparency are nice in prints. +1 starI don't want to have to baby my prints. When it prints right it prints well. I've had to hyper adjust my printer settings to get this to stick right on the first layer. If the first layer stays stuck, generally the rest will be fine. Some of this may be issues with my printer, but with PLA and ABS I haven't had to be this fussy.

I just finished my roll of PETG, I thought I would share a few photos. I found this to be a pretty nice material to print with, I had very little warping and just about a 100% success rate . There was two prints of the same file that lifted, but im sure it was user error as the third time it worked, same file, but new Z platform. I was printing at 245, seemed like it needed to be that hot for good layer adhesion. I also had to print pretty slow, around 35-40mm/s. It did wreck havoc with the PTFE on my extruder , I went through three tubes, each one lasting about 15-20 hours before i would get skipping. There are suspicious discolorations on the expended tubes, at the spot where the threads on the thermal barrier end, exiting the heating block. All three tubes had the same burns. Thanks customs, for clearing my 3in1's and I can finish putting in Carl's barriers. My roll of filament averaged 1.76, with .72 and .81 being the high/low, I probably checked it about every 45 minutes of printing or whenever I had a few skipped steps on the extruder. I am going to use it to hold a core xy together, the blue will look very nice with black v-rail, the parts feel pretty strong, It made good edges and so far the fitting parts have fit together very well. I look forward to the next batch.I posted that on a google group while testing this then new filament. I still believe that today, possibly even more. PET is a great new filament. Very strong and very to no warp.

I have a MakerGear M2 and just bought a bunch of higher-end materials. I got ColorFabb PLA-PHA, ColorFabb XT, PolyMax, and this PETG.I am trying to determine if the PETG is just as good as the XT. I have not tried the XT yet, but the PETG printed well at 245C. I used a 110C bed with glue stick, and didn't have any warpage, cracking, or curling like I do with ABS. I tried Nylon a few times and it was just so much trouble.If in fact the XT is stronger, you can always use PETG with more infill. So philosophically, there is no reason to pay for a stronger material unless you are already at 100% infill.There is more flex to the material than PLA of course, and if you want to avoid that, you can turn up the infill or maker thicker parts. I am really liking the fact that they didn't price it that high, and so I just ordered another roll as I can tell this is something I need around whereas I don't think I will buy more of the others at the current prices.In general, I don't like translucent filaments, as I think clear plastic looks cheap. That being said, I was happy with how this looked printed - but will be very excited if they can do an opaque black or white without losing the material properties.If this was twice the price, I would probably not being using it, but if it stays in the $30 range, then I can see using a lot of it.

I've used eSun PLA and PLA+ for years, this was my first attempt at printing PETG. I chose this filament for the color since I wanted a shiny translucent deep blue color. eSun did not disappoint!This is a great looking filament and prints very well. At higher temps (230 - 240 deg C) the color and shine are amazing. Even prints well at 210 deg C if you want a more matte/dull finish. Using a bed temp of 75 deg C and printing on blue painter's tape gives great adhesion.Sure it's a bit finicky at times. It's PETG so will naturally be a bit more tricky to print than PLA. Just adjust your extrusion amount (I'm using 110% for first layer, 105% for all others), add a small amount of retraction, and print at slower speeds (I'm using 15mm/s for first layer to ensure good adhesion, 45mm/s for the rest of the print). If you have stringing issues, readjust your retraction settings, travel speeds, and/or add about 30% part cooling fan if needed.Once you get your settings dialed in correctly, you will not be disappointed.