Jim Dunlop Acoustic Guitar Tuning Key (48140002002)

PROS* various finish options* priced in the range of other strap locks* flushmount is a nice option if your guitar can accomodateCONS* not easily reversible due to needing to drill a larger hole for the flush mount insert* requires drilling about 1/4" deeper than a standard schaller straplock* maintenance is recommended in the instructions -- cleaning with wd-40 to avoid jamming/sticking* may have difficulty using certain higher quality/thicker leather straps* error in instructions calls for drilling with a 0.400 drill bit (good luck finding one). They actually mean that you should drill with a 3/8 bit, to a depth of .400 - measured the part with calipers before I installed.DETAILSI usually use Fender/Schaller style straplocks on my guitars and have never had an issue with those, other than the nut that holds the top half to the strap can come loose - but when it does it is typically obvious before you would ever have an issue. You tighten it with a socket on one side, and an adjustable wrench holding the other side -- and it will stay tight for a long, long time. The only problem -- on an SG the strap lock is on the back, facing your stomach, and the Schallers stick out about 3/4 of an inch, and poke you in the stomach. (Or possibly worse if you like to hang your guitar more at groin height. Can I get a snare hit?) Dual design Dunlops also stick out too far, really, on the SG. I tried those first but finally came back to the Flush Mounts, and in the end I'm very glad I did. However...I'm confident that both Schaller and Dunlop make good products that work well when properly installed. But the countersunk Dunlops are a little tricky on an SG. Mine is a '61 SG reissue, for reference. Compared to a "normal" straplock - Schaller or dual purpose Dunlop -, the screws will go about 1/4" deeper. (The actual screw length is similar but they are mounted deeper due to being in the bottom of the flush mount insert.) See photo of 2 screws and consider what is flush with the guitar body and that will make sense to you.The flush mount Dunlop *seemed* genius and like it was the perfect solution. Unfortunately, the screws are so long that they will go slightly through the front of the guitar, although in a location that is covered by a plastic cover. I read on a website that on an SG you will actually hit the truss rod, but mine didn't - I was extremely careful to drill with a tiny pilot drill first, and "feel for it", gradually expanding until I had the right hole.I removed the front plate, felt for the pilot drill, finally put the screw in once I determined that it was no big deal, and filed the tip of the screw so it would be flush with the face of the guitar, then replaced the plastic cover that hides it.If you use a thick leather strap like a Levy's leather strap, you may have difficulty getting these on the strap. I have several Levys straps, and on one there was no way these would ever work. On the others, I was able to actually get it to fit ok.On the bottom edge of the guitar after drilling the 3/8" hole, I discovered Gibson had a 15/64" hole inside with a plastic anchor for the original strap button -- too big for the screw to fasten into obviously. So I had to drill that out further to 1/4", glue in a hardwood dowel, drill a pilot hole in that, and then mount the new assembly.It has worked out fabulously well, but this was more work than any other straplocks I've installed. On my SG, the other style locks sticking out was a real pain, and this is much better -- I'm glad I did it but it took a bit of extra work.UPDATE: I gigged with this as my main guitar for more than a year since these were installed. Still very happy with them - no issues. They also never come loose (unlike my schallers), never need tightening, and that goes for the "guitar-side" part and the "strap-side" part. In fact I bought another SG today (you know...GAS), and I'm about to order another set of these and install them on that guitar too!

I put these on all my rip-rocking axes

I committed to Dunlop Straploks years ago. As a gigging musician I need to have some kind of straplocks on my guitars. I've seen and heard too many horror stories about dropped (or flung!) guitars.I used to use the Dual Design straploks, which are nice if you want to be able to use a regular strap on that guitar. However, I realized that all of my guitars and straps have the straplok system, so I don't need that option. Also, when locked in the dual design buttons bring the strap out quite a bit from the body of the guitar, which has a couple of issues:1. It can change the balance of the guitar, or be bulky. Especially with strap buttons that are behind the neck.2. It looks kind of bad, like your strap is "floating" out there on a weird post.These are your solution. They come with mounting instructions and they bring the strap to where it would normally be on a standard strap button. Looks great and very clean when the strap is off too. Balance isn't an issue anymore and replacing a neck strap button with one of these makes it much more comfortable. Unless you are replacing a previous set, you WILL have to drill out a hole to install. Follow the instructions and you'll do fine.Depending on the thickness of your strap, is how much pain you are in for when installing the locking button. It can take thin straps no problem, but I have had some issues with thicker leather straps, especially if they are new and not flexible yet. I just take a drill bit and drill the button hole on the strap out a touch and it usually makes it much easier to install. Once they are on, they are not easily coming off.BE AWARE: Lubricate your lock button about once a year or so. (The part that goes on the strap) I put a silicone spray lube in there, so the pin and locking balls move smoothly. I have never had this issue, but some people report that it can get stuck in the "unlocked" position if dry over time which can cause your guitar to fall.

Works as it should

I have Dunlop Straploks on literally every one of my 6 guitars. I started putting them on after a strap came off of its pin, causing my guitar to crash to the floor, and putting a crack in the neck heel.Originally I used the dual-purpose versions where you can unclick the lock and just use it as a normal strap pin. But I'd always thought looked a bit goofy, so I've started switching over to the flush mount.A word of warning- while the dual-purpose pins are a reversible modification, the flush mount pins are NOT. You really have to drill out the whole quite a bit to make them fit, and you won't be able to put a normal pin back in when you're done without plugging and redrilling the hole.As for the install: Installing the bridge-side pin is a snap. Just mark off the hole depth on a drill bit using some masking tape, the drill until the tape is in line with the hole. Insert pin, screw in, you're done. Everything is neat and flush.However, the neck-side pin presents some problems, especially on guitars with Strat-style upper horns. Manufacturers typically install the pin at the point where the horn is sharpest. Because of this, I have yet to get the flush mount to actually sit, well, flush. Typically there is a small gap on either side where it rounds away. I've had this happen on the two guitars I have with flush mounts.Just a fair warning.Also, I've been having issues with mine buzzing lately when I play a lower string. I'm still looking for a fix for that.That being said, I don't regret buying and installing these. The black ones in particular look really cool.

The recess fasteners instead in the strap buttons is a neat idea.

Love this product. Fast shipping and quality item.