38900 Two Valve Tool Kit for Ford Triton,Spark Plug Thread Repair Kit,Foolproof Spark Plug Repair System Compatible with Ford F150/250/350 E150/250/350 4.6L,5.4L,6.8L Two Valve Engine

Worked great, but a few hints. Thread inserts had to be shortened. They were approx. 3/16-1/4 longer than the spark plugs. I cut them down and cleaned the inner and outer threads.I had to use a 1/2 drive impact to drill the pilot hole. An air racket didn’t have the torque to cut the hole. I went slow and used lots of grease on both the drill bit and the tap.I found threadlocker H-272 worked as well as the more expensive Loctite. Very thick and rated at 450 degrees F. Very pleased with the results.I also used anti sieze on the plug when installing the insert. Once installed I let everything sit 24 hours. Started and ran until the truck got up to an operating temp. Let cool and removed the plug and inspected. Then cleaned most of the anti seize off and reinstalled.VERY happy with the results.

Work really well

Someone tried to repair the engine with an inferior tool. Once I removed the old helicoil and used this kit, it went very well. I was able to complete this repair with this kit. Worth every penny.

I got this for my husband who is rough on all his work vehicles, and blowing a spark plug is not an uncommon thing to happen to him. I know nothing about mechanics, but I do know that without this tool, he could not have fixed it on his own, meaning it saves us a lot of money. It comes in a real spiffy aluminum type case with handles. He and his buddy worked on the van for days and couldn't get the job done until this arrived. The spark plug literally blew out and flew several feet while he was driving it. He was going to order this kit from somewhere else, until I told him Amazon had one even better for less money.

This thing is trash. I may revise my review tomorrow, we will see, but right now I'm steaming mad.I have hundreds of hours working on vehicles, I've done difficult jobs numerous times. By far this thing so far takes the cake.As many have said the drill (which is actually a reamer) had incorrect cutting flute geometry. I'm a retired machinist, it's plain to see that this is sharpened wrong. My first mistake was not inspecting it before I set up for the job. I am doing the #4 cylinder, arguably the worst one, so I thought it wasn't cutting well due to the tight confines and the fact that I couldn't apply a lot of downward force. After running 2 batteries flat for the electric ratchet I switched to air. After about an hour of that, I pulled the whole shebang out, dropped the bore scope in and saw is made almost no progress. A few chips but I could still see stripped threads. So, I've got another 5.4 on an engine stand that I'm doing all the problem areas before it goes on this truck. I pulled the #5 plug from that engine (the threads are still good), dropped in the guide and the reamer. To my surprise it settled pretty close to exactly as deep as I had gotten with about 3 hours of work on the engine on the truck.So, that's when I notice the geometry is pretty bad. I went through my case of reamers, and of course the 11/16th one is missing. I am trying not to modify this one that came in the kit in case I have to return it. So, I grab a 11/16 drill and I weld a nut on the shank. I made more progress in 5 minutes with that then I did in hours with the reamer in the kit. I really don't recommend this method though. A standard twist drill is pretty aggressive for aluminum. I actually already sheared it's shank in the haz once when it bound. Thankfully it was not yet all the way through it it would have dropped into the cylinder.So, I've welded a new nut in and I'm going to let it cook slowly in sand over night and I'll pick back up in the am. Hopefully it makes it through the last thread and a half and I can go on with life.Holy crap this has been horrible. Just about the worst outcome from a tool that's supposed to make life easier. I would have bought a set from a seller with more reviews but this one was the only one available quickly. At this point it's cost me so much time I should have ordered a more established kit

Great product works as it should

Watch plenty of YouTube videos prior. A good air wand is the hardest thing to find, you need it to blow the chips out of the cylinder, very important.Super important to have the piston near bottom dead center with both valves closed so you don't damage the piston or blow chips past the valves into the intake.My only complaint is that the air fitting provided was an oddball type and I had to go to auto parts store to make an adapter, cost about another 20 bucks.No big deal.Make sure you buy an ultra high heat thread locker to put on the external threads of the insert.Also this kit provides stainless steel inserts, just my opinion but I think that stainless is superior to the coated steel variety.

Remember to use/spray lightweight or penetrating oil when using the reamer tool and is good for thread cutting tool as well. When given a "cutting oil" it will go fairly quickly. Follow directions and you are done in less than an hour. You must set the engine up so that the cylinder you are working on is Bottomed out with both valves closed so you can blow out any chips of aluminum with a long snoot air gun. I didn't use the JB Weld, so I don't know how well it works. Mechanic didn't want to use it because of expansion and contraction of the aluminum.