QIDI TECH 3D Printer, X-Pro 3D Printer with WiFi Function, Dual Extruder, High Precision Double Color Printing with ABS,PLA,TPU Filament,9.1x5.9x5.9 Inch

We have used the printer for 6 months and made over 400 prints. We run it almost 24 hours per day and only have experienced about 4 bad prints that were really due to operator error. That is 99% success on printing. We print both small and very large prints lasting up to 20 hours of print time. If you are a beginner this is still the best 3D printer for you as it will produce professional results as you gain experience. It has all the control features needed to do excellent work in ABS and PLA.Like all FDM 3D printers, the slicer program is a very important part of the process and the free one that comes with the printer is excellent. The most import aspect of FDM printing and design of shapes is the users experience. All the shapes we print are of our own design and we have 4 years experience in creating designs for FDM printers and I can recommend this printer to both the expert user as well as the beginner. For the Professional expert designer it is excellent as it seems to almost never fail. This is remarkable were a 90% success rate is considered really good. We have experienced almost a 99% success rate. The printer is very reliable. For the Beginner I recommend this printer as it is not the weak link in successful prints so the beginner can focus on learning without having to struggle with the printer itself. Not 3D printer can make up for a lack of user experience but at least this printer will not be the cause of failed prints.We printer mostly ABS and ABS + and are very pleased with the speed and quality of the printer.I could recommed some minor changes to make the printer easier to use and maintain but in general it is quite easy to operate. One issue that would make it easy to see the printing in process would be a light source on the printhead itself that moves with the nozzle.The two print head design needs to have independent height adjustments for the nozzles so the can be set to the same height prior to printing. This would make two color or suport/one color printing easier. We do not use both heads at the same time for this reason.I don't care for the use of timing belts on the X-Y axis but it does not seem to limit our print quality and the printing is really quite fast.The extra parts, tools and nozzles that come with the printer are really a good idea.The service via email is very fast and professional.The magnetic build plates are really well designed and we have no issues removing ABS parts.When the printer is used non-stop we do not need to re-do the height adjustment and sometimes run of days without the need for height adjustment. The height adjustment is easy to perform and while it is a manual operation it only takes a few minutes.It general this is a remarkable workhorse of the printer and the price is really low compared to its competitors.A word to beginners, start small and work your way up to more complex designs. It takes months to gain the experience required for design and operation of any 3D printer.

This is my third 3D printer but the first where I didn't feel the short comings were so bad I needed to start modifying things. My other printers are heavily customized and using Marlin via dedicated OctoPi on RPi's. The firmware on this isn't perfect but that could be a result of me being spoiled by Marlin & OctoPi. This unit really has changed my view on printing things, my other units usually work fine but I’d have to check in on them remotely via OctoPi to make sure they didn’t just totally screwup making a giant rats nest or hairball. This printer has just lowered my printer anxiety a bunch since it just works and makes quality prints with little fuss. Just remember this and EVERY 3D printer need maintenance, after 5 months I needed to replace both heads (extras included in the box) and I replaced the magnetic PEI sheet at the same time even though it didn’t seem like it really needed it.Setup: This was pretty straight forward, the only tricky part was installing the fan shroud only because the instructions were not clear here. Taking my time this was up and running inside an hour for sure and that included a beer break. I also initially setup Wi-Fi on the printer too and it was fairly painless.Software: The provided one by Qidi is a clone/customized version of Cura so if your already familiar with it the learning curve is short. I’ve got no complaints really from it other than one thing, while I can dial in my settings fine and it remembers them there is no way to save a profile. I found the default settings prints the included filaments just fine but when tuning a few things here and there for other brands it would be nice to be able to save a profile. Now for Wi-Fi printing which SO many people complain about not working. At first my wouldn’t seem to work either and saving the sliced item via Wi-Fi never would appear as an option. That is until I noticed the little Wi-Fi icon in the lower left of “Cura”. As long as I was on the same Wi-Fi as the printer (worth noting if you have more than one network in your home even if they are connected somewhere i.e. a cascading internet or similar) then I could click the Wi-Fi icon and viola it would appear as my option to save the GCode. I said earlier I initially set this up and while it still is I rarely use it because transferring a large print can be slow as the main board of the printer (like most for that matter) just don’t have the bandwidth to receive the Wi-Fi signal and copy it to the USB drive. For example a Ramps boards built off the ATmega 2560 is only an 8 bit board running typically 16mhz. For medium to really large files I find it just saves time to pull the USB drive and save directly to it and slap it back in the printer. I have DEFINITELY been spoiled here by running a dedicated OctoPi server before as file transfers can be essentially instant. At some point I’ll probably setup a dedicated OctoPi for this unit as well (note if your interested in doing this the built in USB slot is NOT repeat NOT capable out of the box of doing this, you will need to make some connections to the main board itself directly and it’s been done numerous time and google is your friend).Head Leveling: As others have mentioned the dual heads can sometimes be a wee bit off and there are steps to correct this via a paper shim. It’s actually quick easy and painless to do so don’t chicken out and panic by sending the unit back like some others who reviewed on here have done. It takes 2 or 3 minutes with testing (trying different thickness of paper) but if you need to do this here are some suggestions which could save you from needing to do this at all. When your leveling the bed via the touch screen; first preheat the bed and *both* heads for a good 5 min before you level then select the leveling option. When it gets to the first point to set (front left) don’t dial it in yet. On the screen there are 2 options; bottom left goes to leveling point 2 and bottom right stops the leveling process and this is what you want to push. Make sure the preheaters are still off if (I think they do stay on) then use the manual move option and lower the bed say 10mm. Now via the touch screen move the print heads to the right several steps till both heads are over the board (you could move towards the back say 10mm too if you want). Now move the bed back up the same interval you moved it down and set the level checking both heads. You should have a very similar drag on both, remember it’s a light drag no scraping or drilling holes through the leveling sheet. Here’s why. On the first leveling point only the right printer head is over the bed so you cant even check both and if yours is like mine the front leftmost corner is like .25mm higher RIGHT on the edge. The heads can still be slightly off here, honestly you’re never going to get them dead nuts on less than say < .1mm so don’t spend all day trying. Now lower the bed 10mm again and leave the front back setting as is and now move the heads all the way to the right side of the bed mirroring the position just used. Raise the bed again and repeat the leveling like before. Now drop the bed 10mm again and move to the dead center and then rearward as far as you can staying over the bed. Raise the bed again and well you get the point. While doing this take note that if the drag on each head remains consistent at each leveling point. If it is you can try shimming to fix this but if you have different drags between heads on different locations you might try reversing your magnetic build surface and see if it still does it. I have a slight difference still in my heads and it’s not enough to worry me at all, for the lower of the heads use that one for filaments that like to be squeezed a little more like ABS and for the fractionally higher one you can use it for ones that don’t like PETG. Unlike my other printers which require all to frequent leveling I only level this printer every other week or so and it responds fine to this.After 5 months of printing I started noticing some degraded print quality, especially on taller items. My first clue was occasional clicking from the print head coming from the stepper feed. The frequency of the clicking increased till nearly every print above 20mm would fail. I was being lazy but if you see or hear this just save yourself aggravation and replace the print nozzles with the extras included in the box. Unless you’ve only used 1 the whole time you should replace both. This is because the work to replace both is almost the same and your going to have to level everything again anyway. I’m honestly surprised they lasted this long as my other printers (my heaviest modded one in particular) chews them up every couple weeks. So replacing it and doing the extensive 100 point leveling process would make me want to walk away for weeks which is why I bought this unit in the first place.