---
product_id: 50535552
title: "2.5\" Series II Lift Kit for 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK - 635"
brand: "rough country"
price: "€ 265.94"
currency: EUR
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 8
category: "Rough Country"
url: https://www.desertcart.ie/products/50535552-2-5-series-ii-lift-kit-for-2007-2018-jeep
store_origin: IE
region: Ireland
---

# 2.5" precise lift height bolt-on installation ease limited lifetime warranty 2.5" Series II Lift Kit for 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK - 635

**Brand:** rough country
**Price:** € 265.94
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> ⬆️ Lift your Jeep, lift your adventure — stand out on every trail!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** 2.5" Series II Lift Kit for 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK - 635 by rough country
- **How much does it cost?** € 265.94 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.ie](https://www.desertcart.ie/products/50535552-2-5-series-ii-lift-kit-for-2007-2018-jeep)

## Best For

- rough country enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted rough country brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Effortless DIY Upgrade:** Bolt-on design means you can install at home without complex modifications or drilling.
- • **Built to Last a Lifetime:** Backed by Rough Country’s limited lifetime replacement warranty for peace of mind.
- • **Precision Rear Axle Alignment:** Rear track bar bracket maintains axle centering for superior handling and stability.
- • **Elevate Your Jeep’s Presence:** Gain 2.5 inches of aggressive ground clearance to dominate any terrain with confidence.
- • **Engineered for Extreme Articulation:** Spring retention design keeps coil springs perfectly seated during off-road flexing.

## Overview

The Rough Country 2.5" Series II Lift Kit for 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK delivers a perfect balance of enhanced off-road capability, durability, and style. Featuring a bolt-on installation with no drilling required, it raises your Jeep by 2.5 inches for improved ground clearance and tire clearance up to 35". Its spring retention design ensures coil springs stay securely in place during extreme articulation, while the included rear track bar bracket keeps the rear axle centered for optimal handling. Constructed from alloy steel and aluminum, this kit is backed by a limited lifetime warranty, making it a reliable upgrade for serious Jeep enthusiasts.

## Description

Buy Rough Country 2.5" Series II Lift Kit for 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK - 635: Body & Suspension Lift Kits - desertcart.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

Review: Here's your tool list and a couple tips - Great Product, quick shipping. You need more tools than it shows on it's tools required list. You will want to install the rear first. When you are doing the brake line extension brackets, you will need a 7/16 socket, and wrench to install the brake line bracket to the extension bracket. You will prefer a 10mm socket for removal in re-installation of the bolt that goes into the frame. When you hit the point where it tells you to remove the lower bolts for the rear sway bar end links, you will need to remove the whole thing, to install the new ones. At this point, if you do not have an impact wrench, take the top off first (19mm wrench on ball end, and 18mm socket on nut end), otherwise you'll be fighting it flopping around while trying to remove the torque nut. if you have impact wrench, remove the bottom first so you can get access to the tops with the impact wrench. Installation of the spacer is not easy, it's very tight quarters above the frame. hold that bolt and spacer up there and try to spin that nut onto it from the top. Here, an impact wrench will help you keep your sanity. trying to hold a wrench up there above the frame, in the pocket on a torque nut that's welded to a disc, while simultaneously trying to tighten a long wobbly assembly of the weighty spacer and a bolt just doesn't go smoothly. When you hit the point that you will be reinstalling the springs, I had to use a bottle jack between the axle and frame on the passenger side to push the axle down far enough to get the spring in. It doesn't tell you in the tools required list, that you will need a 13/32 drill bit to drill a hole into the horizontal surface of the bracket for the rear track bar. I used a 7/16, worked fine. you'll also be needing 9/16 wrenches and sockets at this point. When doing the front, I got to the shock brackets last. the new bolts I had left over didn't fit the crush sleeves, and they wouldn't even thread into their nuts. You will have left over bolts from the sway bar end link swaps, I used those, it worked out much better. The driver's side brake line bracket mounted at the axle by one 10mm headed screw was necessary to remove to gain enough droop on the axle to get the spring in. It re-installed fine. The driver's side brake line bracket at the frame, for the extension bracket, yeah, that was a bear.... I separated the axle breather hose and the other line from it and bent the hard brake line down, to gain the necessary stretch to bolt the extension in. The instruction called for the vehicle to be on the ground to do the sway bar end link connections. My driveway isn't flat, I do it in the air. that way I can raise or lower the axle as needed to line up the last bolt connection. Tool list should include the 13/32 drill bit, 19mm (also known as 3/4) wrench and socket(regular and deep), 18mm wrench and socket (regular and deep), 21mm wrench and socket, 16mm wrench and socket, 14mm (also known as 9/16) wrench and socket,13mm (aka 1/2) wrench and socket, 7/16 wrench and socket, 10mm socket, and a compothane hammer helps move things around without damage.
Review: A little tricky, but not too bad of an install. - I think it really should be closer to a four star rating, but for the cost and time it took I’ll give it a five. One irritating thing is the kit is all with standard threads, while the Jeep is all metric. I hate metric, but I hate even more is going back and forth between the two constantly. The job goes much quicker with an impact driver and wrench (love my Milwaukee tools for this). Also I discovered my jack stands weren’t tall enough to use on the frame, so I scarily used my rv’s leveling jacks to suspend the Jeep. Instructions were adequate. For installation pearls, here’s a few. Although the instructions start on the front, go with the rear first, as you’ll need the rear sway bar links to repurpose for the front. Slide the crush sleeves onto the bolts first before trying to mount them on the new sway bar links. I didn’t do this first and the small amount of banging with a brass hammer screwed them up badly to the point that the bolts wouldn’t go through without some coaxing. Which then damaged the threads and I had to chase the threads. Also on the driver side the bottom sway bar nut won’t be able to get past the new traction bar mount without grinding a little off the built in washer. I ended up using the old sway bar nut and bolt for this (and why did Jeep use two different threads for the sway bar link?). Mounting the new rear spacers is difficult. If you have short fat fingers....get help. You will find a way to hold down the top washer nut with a finger, and the spacer also has a vertical gap which allows you to see where the bolt is to line them up. Use a six inch extension and stuff something in the bottom of a 3/4” socket to get the bolt up high enough to hand screw in initially. It also helps to have a thin offset 3/4 wrench to hold the top nut while tightening it. The front brake brackets were too long, so I drilled another hole for them. Rears were fine. A coil spring compressor (use a macpherson strut one) isn’t a must, but it certainly helped a bit one the rear ones. The front coil springs were much easier to re-install and didn’t need the coil spring compressor. I stepped down on the driver side brake caliber, which was enough to get the coil in, then used a jack at the driver side spindle to raise it, which lowered the passenger side enough to mount the coil spring. The lower front shock brackets don’t fit well, and some minor bending will be needed to coax them into place. Had to bend them out a little to get them to fit over the old mount, then screw in the vertical bolt, then had to bend them out a little more to get them to let the shock eye to fit. Once it’s tightened, the mild flaring is fixed. Overall it wasn’t too bad of an install. I’ve been a shade tree mechanic for 35 years, restoring old cars and repairing new ones, and this probably took a little longer because 1).my tools are all in a back shed about 400 ft from my driveway (wife got the front garage), and I probably made several trips since I had no clue what I really needed. 2). Had to figure out how to minimize going under a vehicle not supported that well since I didn’t have tall enough jack stands. And 3). Wife and kids were home, so foul language wasn’t available to quickly vent frustrations and had to stay quiet.

## Features

- Give your Wrangler JK the Perfect Blend of Performance, Protection, and Style from Rough Country.
- Unmatched Ground Clearance to Conquer On and Off-Road Obstacles.
- Spring Retention Design / Coil Springs stay in Place during Extreme Articulation | Rear Track Bar Bracket / Keeps Rear Axle Centered.
- Easy at Home Bolt-ON Installation Supported by RC.
- Backed by Rough Country's Limited Lifetime Replacement Warranty.

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B0777YVQWL |
| Auto Part Position | Driveline |
| Automotive Fit Type | Vehicle Specific Fit |
| Best Sellers Rank | #237,411 in Automotive ( See Top 100 in Automotive ) #413 in Automobile Chassis Body & Suspension Lift Kits |
| Brand | Rough Country |
| Construction | Drilling Required: No |
| Customer Reviews | 4.5 4.5 out of 5 stars (538) |
| Date First Available | January 17, 2013 |
| Exterior | Machined |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00843030111564 |
| Included Components | (4) 2.5" Coil Spring Spacers, Brake Line Relocation Bracket, Extended Sway Bar links, Hardware, Track Bar Relocation Bracket |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Item Weight | 17.69 pounds |
| Item model number | 635 |
| Manufacturer | Rough Country |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 635 |
| Material | Alloy Steel, Aluminum |
| Maximum Lifting Height | 2.5 Inches |
| Model | 2.5" Series II Lift Kit |
| Product Dimensions | 28.75 x 6.25 x 7.5 inches |
| Special Features | 35" tires will clear but rubbing may occur with extreme articulation, If planning on running 35" tires on factory wheels, double check clearance between the front tire, lower control arm and sway-bar links. |
| UPC | 843030111564 |

## Product Details

- **Auto Part Position:** Driveline
- **Brand:** Rough Country
- **Material:** Alloy Steel, Aluminum
- **Maximum Lifting Height:** 2.5 Inches

## Images

![2.5" Series II Lift Kit for 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK - 635 - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/510XsP6SogL.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Style** options.

## Questions & Answers

**Q: would I need to changed the Pitman Arm for a longer reach to the drag link**
A: No you do not need to change the Pitman arm. Great kit! Easy to install and looks awesome. I've had it on for over a year.

**Q: Will this fit a 2010 2 door jk?**
A: Yes will fit a 2 door jk wrangler

**Q: Will this lit fit a 2019 jeep wrangler unlimited sport. If not which kit will.**
A: No, this is not made for a 2019 model. 
Another answer here is incorrect. The actual changeover year is 2018, so early 2018 was the JK and later 2018 was the JL. ALL 2019+ Wranglers are JL.

**Q: do I need an exhaust spacer kit for this lift kit?**
A: No you will not need exhaust extensions with this kit.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Here's your tool list and a couple tips
*by G***N on April 4, 2016*

Great Product, quick shipping. You need more tools than it shows on it's tools required list. You will want to install the rear first. When you are doing the brake line extension brackets, you will need a 7/16 socket, and wrench to install the brake line bracket to the extension bracket. You will prefer a 10mm socket for removal in re-installation of the bolt that goes into the frame. When you hit the point where it tells you to remove the lower bolts for the rear sway bar end links, you will need to remove the whole thing, to install the new ones. At this point, if you do not have an impact wrench, take the top off first (19mm wrench on ball end, and 18mm socket on nut end), otherwise you'll be fighting it flopping around while trying to remove the torque nut. if you have impact wrench, remove the bottom first so you can get access to the tops with the impact wrench. Installation of the spacer is not easy, it's very tight quarters above the frame. hold that bolt and spacer up there and try to spin that nut onto it from the top. Here, an impact wrench will help you keep your sanity. trying to hold a wrench up there above the frame, in the pocket on a torque nut that's welded to a disc, while simultaneously trying to tighten a long wobbly assembly of the weighty spacer and a bolt just doesn't go smoothly. When you hit the point that you will be reinstalling the springs, I had to use a bottle jack between the axle and frame on the passenger side to push the axle down far enough to get the spring in. It doesn't tell you in the tools required list, that you will need a 13/32 drill bit to drill a hole into the horizontal surface of the bracket for the rear track bar. I used a 7/16, worked fine. you'll also be needing 9/16 wrenches and sockets at this point. When doing the front, I got to the shock brackets last. the new bolts I had left over didn't fit the crush sleeves, and they wouldn't even thread into their nuts. You will have left over bolts from the sway bar end link swaps, I used those, it worked out much better. The driver's side brake line bracket mounted at the axle by one 10mm headed screw was necessary to remove to gain enough droop on the axle to get the spring in. It re-installed fine. The driver's side brake line bracket at the frame, for the extension bracket, yeah, that was a bear.... I separated the axle breather hose and the other line from it and bent the hard brake line down, to gain the necessary stretch to bolt the extension in. The instruction called for the vehicle to be on the ground to do the sway bar end link connections. My driveway isn't flat, I do it in the air. that way I can raise or lower the axle as needed to line up the last bolt connection. Tool list should include the 13/32 drill bit, 19mm (also known as 3/4) wrench and socket(regular and deep), 18mm wrench and socket (regular and deep), 21mm wrench and socket, 16mm wrench and socket, 14mm (also known as 9/16) wrench and socket,13mm (aka 1/2) wrench and socket, 7/16 wrench and socket, 10mm socket, and a compothane hammer helps move things around without damage.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ A little tricky, but not too bad of an install.
*by A***R on May 5, 2019*

I think it really should be closer to a four star rating, but for the cost and time it took I’ll give it a five. One irritating thing is the kit is all with standard threads, while the Jeep is all metric. I hate metric, but I hate even more is going back and forth between the two constantly. The job goes much quicker with an impact driver and wrench (love my Milwaukee tools for this). Also I discovered my jack stands weren’t tall enough to use on the frame, so I scarily used my rv’s leveling jacks to suspend the Jeep. Instructions were adequate. For installation pearls, here’s a few. Although the instructions start on the front, go with the rear first, as you’ll need the rear sway bar links to repurpose for the front. Slide the crush sleeves onto the bolts first before trying to mount them on the new sway bar links. I didn’t do this first and the small amount of banging with a brass hammer screwed them up badly to the point that the bolts wouldn’t go through without some coaxing. Which then damaged the threads and I had to chase the threads. Also on the driver side the bottom sway bar nut won’t be able to get past the new traction bar mount without grinding a little off the built in washer. I ended up using the old sway bar nut and bolt for this (and why did Jeep use two different threads for the sway bar link?). Mounting the new rear spacers is difficult. If you have short fat fingers....get help. You will find a way to hold down the top washer nut with a finger, and the spacer also has a vertical gap which allows you to see where the bolt is to line them up. Use a six inch extension and stuff something in the bottom of a 3/4” socket to get the bolt up high enough to hand screw in initially. It also helps to have a thin offset 3/4 wrench to hold the top nut while tightening it. The front brake brackets were too long, so I drilled another hole for them. Rears were fine. A coil spring compressor (use a macpherson strut one) isn’t a must, but it certainly helped a bit one the rear ones. The front coil springs were much easier to re-install and didn’t need the coil spring compressor. I stepped down on the driver side brake caliber, which was enough to get the coil in, then used a jack at the driver side spindle to raise it, which lowered the passenger side enough to mount the coil spring. The lower front shock brackets don’t fit well, and some minor bending will be needed to coax them into place. Had to bend them out a little to get them to fit over the old mount, then screw in the vertical bolt, then had to bend them out a little more to get them to let the shock eye to fit. Once it’s tightened, the mild flaring is fixed. Overall it wasn’t too bad of an install. I’ve been a shade tree mechanic for 35 years, restoring old cars and repairing new ones, and this probably took a little longer because 1).my tools are all in a back shed about 400 ft from my driveway (wife got the front garage), and I probably made several trips since I had no clue what I really needed. 2). Had to figure out how to minimize going under a vehicle not supported that well since I didn’t have tall enough jack stands. And 3). Wife and kids were home, so foul language wasn’t available to quickly vent frustrations and had to stay quiet.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Nice Lift kit and great price
*by P***O on October 15, 2025*

This set worked perfectly with my 2014 JK. All pieces came packaged really well. The only issue to be on the lookout for is if you have metal brake lines vs rubber hoses. My brake lines were not flexible so the reposition brackets for the break lines I could not use. Luckily I know a great mechanic that created a custom bracket for the front and rear. So I still give this set 5 stars. No noise, and a handles well. I’m installing a dual stabilizer next as the height in ride will require a tighter steering system. Over all everything is good so far.

## Frequently Bought Together

- Rough Country 2.5" Series II Lift Kit for 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK - 635
- Rough Country N3 Dual Steering Stabilizer for 07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK - 8734930
- Rancho RockGEAR RS62103 Suspension Control Arm Bracket

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*Product available on Desertcart Ireland*
*Store origin: IE*
*Last updated: 2026-03-11*