BlueRigger 4K HDMI CEC Less Adapter (UHD, ARC,1080p, Ethernet) - Male to Female HDMI CEC Blocker, Compatible with HDTV, TV Stick, Chromecast, Nintendo Switch, Xbox, PS3, Laptop, Game Console, PC

I've been having CEC issues with my new atmos dolby processor I'd just purchased. My entire set Inc. Peripherals began behaving strangely. The processor would drop the audio TV signal unexpectedly or would revert to PCM 2.0 channel even though audio signal was DD+. Additionally my peripherals like 4K DVD player would turn on uncommanded. After researching the issue online. Many were talking about taping off of pin 13 within the HDMI cable head which would disable the CEC functionality. Researching things further I then stumbled upon "Blue Rigger" CEC adapter. Connected CEC adapter to the relevant connections. It's built to a high spec, easy to use and install, flexible as to which end of the cable or connection you place it. Doesn't disrupt eARC signal and completely blocks the CEC signals from my peripherals. (no pin 13). No more issues with strange behaviours from my Audio Visual system. Everything is now stable. And when I turn my TV on the DD+ audio signal is passed through to the processor without issues now. I did a check within my TV's CEC settings list all my peripherals no longer listed apart from my processor which is connected directly to the TV via the eARC port. Excellent device. Would recommend. Works as stated!

This is a great little product but with no instructions it took min about 5 minutes to work things out. If I am using my SKY puck my soundbar would constantly cut out if I changed through the channels quickly or if I used any of the apps. After connecting it up to my SKY puck it has 95% solved the issue. It still happens with the Netflix app (all other apps are now fixed). If I use the Netflix app via my Samsung TV it is fine.

Works great but for what it is its very expensive

Does exactly as intended. Plugged a new mini pc into my Samsung TV and suddenly my Sonos Beam stopped working. After a bit of research found out it was probably a cec signal conflict when I introduced the new bit of kit. Bought this to block the new signal from the mini pc and worked a treat.

I've got a Mac Mini that is mainly being used for server purposes, and it's always plugged into a TV at home. I often access it via screen sharing from my MacBook, but I find that if the TV is off, it'll turn on and stay on, and if the TV is watching something else, it will switch inputs to the Mac Mini, both of which were really annoying for me Sticking this cheap HDMI adapter into the Mac Mini before the HDMI lead has fixed all the issues! No input switching to the Mac Mini when I access it from screensharing, and I can always still use the TV remote to view the Mac Mini output when I do need it. A simple but effective purchase!

I had purchased a soundbar to supplement an LG TV and Humax PVR. The soundbar wasn't switching on when the TV was turned on. I would if I turned everything off, disconnected the HDMI leads and the turned everything on again! After some research, I found out that my Humax PVR really didn't 'do' CEC (Consumer Electronics Control) correctly. I then found out that on a HDMI connector, Pin 13 is for CEC. So, I ordered a ‘BlueRigger 4K HDMI CEC Less Adapter’ which has Pin 13 disabled. The result, is that the Soundbar is working fine now (phew). In summary, this simple product solved my CEC issue.

I bought this because my Sky Stream puck started having video glitches when I plugged something it didn’t like into one of my TV’s other HDMI ports. I wanted to keep the other device connected, so I thought I’d try this BlueRigger thing. I plugged it directly into the Sky Stream puck. It solved the problem. I recently had another issue when I connected a VCR to my TV via a SCART-to-HDMI adaptor to play a commercially-produced video tape, in that the Macrovision copy protection on the tape was stopping the audio and video from playing correctly (presumably it thought I was trying to bypass this with the SCART-to-HDMI adaptor). I thought I’d try putting the adaptor into the BlueRigger. This worked and the tape played correctly. So now I’ve got two uses for the BlueRigger!

It didn't work at all. I connected the Tapo H500 Hub to a Samsung QN90 TV, but the TV didn't receive a signal. I bought it to cut off the CEC signal, but there's still no picture. I tried everything, but it didn't work. I bought a pack of two, and neither worked. I haven't tried it with another device.

A lifesaver for this MiSTer FPGA user! My TV ecosystem works again. No negative effect on audio or video quality. Easy to install, took like 5 seconds. Connects just like an HDMI cable

I bought this to stop my new mini pc from turning off everytime I turned my TV off. I have a Bose speaker hooked up to the HDMI (arc) plug on my tv and HDMI-Cec on, otherwise I’d have to change the settings for my sound each time to use the speaker. I log in remotely to my mini pc sometimes so was annoyed to find the it had turned off. This little adapter stops signal from turning my pc off everytime I turned off my tv. I’ve bought a second one for my other tv where I run 2 HomePods through my Apple TV as my tv speakers. When I turn on the tv, it always turns on the last device used, and if it’s my Apple TV box, i can’t turn the Apple TV box off without turning my tv off again. So this should fix that also.

Good quality. Able to upscale the picture with 3D. Not suitable for all devices. A good choice for anyone who has a reputed device.

This adapter is a life saver. My TV Box now no longer interferes with AV receiver’s audio from the TV over HDMI ARC. Earlier, I accidentally discovered that the Sony Bravia’s audio worked with Yamaha 7.2 AV receiver only with the TV Box disconnected. The TV box’s HDMI CEC feature was supposedly causing the ARC “handshake” between TV, AV receiver and TV Box to malfunction. There was no audio from AV receiver. While searching on google, I came across a blog that pointed to this CEC-less HDMI adapter. Realizing the root cause of the problem, I was certain this adapter would do the job. I ordered this a week ago and it arrived today in Dubai. I tested connections this evening and all works perfectly now. I am so happy. This adapter can connect to the TV-end or the TV box-end of the HDMI cable. It doesn’t matter. Make sure you first determine what device is causing the problem and then use this adapter to block CEC signal on that particular HDMI device and cable.

My Samsung Q870A/XY soundbar has worked with my Samsung TU8000 TV for a long time without issue. Have always used the eARC function so I can control soundbar, TV and NVIDIA Shield Pro using the Shield (or Samsung TV) controller. For some reason that eARC / CEC functionality suddenly stopped working and my Samsung TV no longer recognised by Samsung soundbar. Perhaps it was a firmware update on one of the two devices, HDMI handshake issues or a device introduced a CEC conflict? After much painful power cycling, HDMI cable testing, HDMI cable swapping, general diagnostics and forum trawling I worked out what the issue was. If only the soundbar was connected by HDMI to the TV eARC HDMI port then soundbar and TV worked. As soon as any other device was connected to HDMI 1 or HDMI 3 (the non eARC spare inputs on my TV) the soundbar would drop off and wouldn’t be ‘seen’ by the TV. That’s when I learned about my new nemesis: PIN 13 in HDMI causing issues with unwanted CEC signals. Yes, as described on some websites you could get some pliers and a magnifying glass out to prise out the offending pin on one of your cables, or you could carefully tape over pin 13 with electrical tape. Realistically though, why would you risk messing up thousands of dollars worth of equipment in lieu of testing a $14 delivered solution with free returns? Anyway, I bought 2 of these for the 2 non-eARC HDMI inputs on my TV and everything worked immediately. I now have my Switch and PS4 rigged up with the soundbar fully working on all sources with Atmos. Why Samsung and other AV companies don’t suggest testing CEC-less adapters as part of the troubleshooting process is beyond me. I don’t normally bother leaving reviews, but this problem was ‘doing my head in’ so I’m leaving as much detail as possible to help anyone else in a similar boat. I’d say if most of the above sounds familiar to you (even with different branded equipment) then this device could well be the solution you’re looking for. Good luck!