VEVOR Liner Puller Cylinder Liner Puller, Diesel Engines Liner Puller Tool, Both Dry-Type and Wet-Type Fit Diameter of 75 mm-138 mm, Universal Cylinder Liner Puller Tool Set for Auto Repair

This is a fantastic inexpensive tool. I don’t take engines apart very often, so buying this was perfect at that price since I have to replace the sleeves. There are a few things that need to be addressed. First, I followed the suggestion in many of the existing reviews and greased the thrust bearing. Regardless, I figured if it broke/crushed, there are better replacements available on amazon. Second, you can only pull so much with the existing support tubes. At that length, the max sleeve you can pull out is about 3” and change. That and the tubes are thin walled so they have to be properly position to make sure there are no side loads on them otherwise they can buckle… didn’t happen to me.However, I had to make longer posts to pull out the sleeves on my Ford 8N engine. They are nearly 6 1/2” long. I just cut in half a 17” long 3/4” dia pipe I had laying around. It worked out very well. The only thing that I should mention is to make sure the nut holding the puller to the screw needs to be very tight otherwise it will simply rotate as you turn the handle. It took me a couple of minutes to realize that I wasn’t pulling the sleeve out. Since all the components for this puller are black, it’s hard to tell if the screw it turning or not, and it shouldn’t.One more thing, I ended up using the upper half of a couple of floor jacks I have for leverage since those sleeves were pretty hard to get out. Again, the thrust bearing worked just fine and the thin walled tubes didn’t buckle. Of course, the 8” long 3/4” dia pipe I used to finish pulling the sleeves out worked great, and by then, I didn’t need the additional leverage from the floor jacks handles. Finally, this tool is perfectly adequate for this task, with a little help. It’s well made, the threads are well machines on both the rod and the handle nut. The handle nut just glides on the rod. The thrust bearing could be a little more robust, but it did the job without breaking. For the occasional user, I definitely recommend this.

Will work on listed cylinder diameters, but be aware that "85-90 mm" means 85mm and 90mm (not from 85 to 90mm). Each plate can do 2 sizes but you may have issues with the smaller of the 2 sizes, as it will protrude beyond the OD of the cylinder sleeve and may catch on the engine block casting before the sleeve has been pulled far enough to release (depending on engine). The larger of the 2 sizes does not protrude outside the OD of the sleeve. Be sure to first grease the thrust ball bearing and the threaded rod.

Worked alright but it needed some cleaning up to work correctly. Apply some good high pressure grease to the main screw and thrust bearing.The thrust bearing was painted over so all the ball bearings were glued in place with paint. I removed the paint and used a pair of pliers to break the ball bearings free in the cage. Luckily the paint is very low quality to it comes off easily.Speaking of paint, it must have still been wet when it was packaged. The manual was resting on the main screw and became glued to it which I assume was because the paint was still tacky when they threw the manual in there.

looks like it will work for me

Tool is of strong quality. Works well. The puller base tube are too long for the height if a 3406B. I had to cut some square tubing and modify the tool to properly remove the liner at my required height. The 51106 thrust bearing supplied is of low quality. The ball bearings fell out after the first use and proceeded to pulverize the cage and races. The bearing needs to be a sealed design, or at least have a quality cage. The part number can be crossed to SKF or National.

I wanted to give this a good review so bad but after trying to use it the bearing fell apart, i said no big deal I can use washers and oil. The biggest issue is this kit uses 2 thin guage tubes for supports and your expected to place these on the cylinder deck but if u have a aluminum engine that's a big issue because it will dig in, deform and ruin the your blocks sealing surface. If u want to use this kit you'll have no choice but to use parallels or 2 identical metal block and toss these thin wall tubes as well as stack about 5 washers in place of the bearing and use grease or oil to allow it to spin easily. I tried the supplied bearing and just like others stated it fell apart on the first pull while removing it, I had wondered what fell in my drain pan until I went to do the second cylinder and seen balls missing. The biggest issue with the bearing is they can fall into coolant or oil channels and not even be noticed, luckily I did notice but now will be pulling the engine and blowing out my oil passages and head bolt holes. This can be a good kid with modification but would rather have paid a lil more for a better product

Pulled sleeves out of my super a motor with no problem

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