Eagle Tool USEA50072 Flex Shank Installer Drill Bit, Auger Style, 1/2-Inch by 72-Inch, 3/16-Inch Shank, Made in The USA

Wow. What a life saver. Installed 4 recessed lights without having to make any holes in the drywall.Find me someone who enjoys drywall work, and I'll show you a deranged maniac.

Worked great in combination with a small ball like a tennis ball on it to help keep the tip from drilling too close to the edge while inside the wall.

I used the drill bit and extension. The drill bit works well. Some short bursts with the drill and it goes right through a joist. The end of the bit that goes into the extension is a problem. It's round, and every design out there has set screws to hold it. You're going to hit the splinters at the back side of the joist that grabs the bit and holds it causing the connection between the extension and the bit itself to just spin. I had to grind down one side of the bit so it was flat and the set crews had something to hold.

These work well, I suggest getting an Endoscope so you can see into the wall. I usually drill a hole before the stud, put the camera in to see what i'm dealing with and drill once I know I'm not going to his anything. My first view into the wall showed I had some power lines running along the studs. Thankfully I didn't drill without looking or I would have some big problems.

Very blunt after going through 2 joists. I got the 3/4" version which appeared to get stuck. I assumed I got a bad piece so I ordered 1/2" to find same results. Frustrated, I cut open the dry wall this morning to know what it could be. The only possibility is that the tool is just too blunt to cut through the wood. You can see how the tool strugglee to cut through the wood in the photo. The deeper hole is less than 1/2". What a waste of time, money and material! Now I have to patch up the dry wall too. Uggh

Using this to drill across my ceiling for recessed lights. Since it's new it's pretty sharp and the screw point on the end keeps it from walking. The shank has only 1 or 2 flat sides so unless I tighten it down really hard in my chuck it will slip. I almost couldn't get it backed out of a hole since it slipped in the drill and it was at a shallow angle. I also cannot see this being able to bend very far. I'm trying to keep the angles pretty small since you have a limited ability to bend it. I am not using the guide tool but I might try a closed end wrench to maneuver it.

Brought these to drill holes for threading wire through studs to install my recessed ceiling lights.For the most part, it works. Drills through the studs (4x10s), though takes quite a bit of error. The screw teeth at the tip deff help with the grip which is great. I wish the drill bit shank were a bit shorter, cause it gets a bit hard to pull it out should I need to do adjustments.The hole at the back is good for putting your romex in to pull through to the other end. However, do note that the hole drilled is only big enough for a single 14/2 romex wire. Any thicker, and it won't fit. Even for 14/2, you have to pull quite a bit for it to go through. So if you need 14/3 or 12/2 or anything larger, get a large diameter bit.

I had a fireblock in my wall between my TV and my media units down below. I was hoping to use this to drill through the fireblock but it didn't work perfectly. "Flexible" isn't a word I would use to describe this 36" bit. Its long and metal, so naturally it's going to have a small bit of deflection flex in it, but it wasn't flexible enough for me to enter through a low voltage junction box and drill through a traditional 2x4 fireblock down 18". The bit naturally wanted to go to the opposite side of the wall cavity, to try to combat that I tried to put a cardboard spacer taped to the end, use a prewar from the top, but nothing worked and I ended up drill through the fireblock and into and through the closet in the bedroom behind my living room tv. Not a big deal, I added another low voltage box there with a solid faceplate to cover the damage. I was hoping this bit would allow me to do what I was attempting without damaging the other side of the wall. Basically this is just a 36" drill bit that goes through wood very well.

I was installing some electrical sockets in a bedroom and was unable to drill a hole behind the socket and down through the floor board using a standard length flat bit, even after extending the bit, I could not get the correct angle for the drill. However after some research I came across these drill bits and they are brilliant due to having some flexibility in the shaft I was able to guide the drill into the correct position to allow me to drill an access hole for the cable.

It is a great tool to have. Used it to run a cable through a noggin in a stud wall. I drilled an access hole in the plasterboard and used a cheap endoscope camera to see what I was doing. Found that you need about 10cm height of the hole to get enough angle so the bit hits the middle of the noggin rather than the plasterboard wall because it's not hugely flexible - what I did was cut a 1cm wide channel up/down from the access hole to create the angle for the flex bit to go in. Use the camera to spot where you want it and away you go. Short sharp bursts using the power drill and reversing to clear the bit if it gets stuck is the key. Got through in about 10-15 seconds of drilling.

Much less bendy than expected, it’s pretty much solid just long with only a few mm of flex

☹️Actually this steel rod/drill bit is very hard to flex....useless for any vertical application as you cannot bend it sufficiently if at all.So you cannot use it close the wall, or near the floor, or beside a corner, as you cannot really bend it...This drill bit ( which is NOT really flexible at all) could only help when installing pot lights, drilling through multiple ceiling joists to limit the number of holes in the ceiling, just maybe.. for anything else, just forget about it and do NOT buy it...I will have to return it.. not easy as it came inside of a 7 ft long box... ANNOYING... they should NOT really advertise it as 'flexible'.....in my opinion, this 1/4 steel rod with a drill bit at the end is NOT really flexible...I would call it slightly bending and I am very optimistic here, disappointing.

It worked, no issues drilling through joist.Tricky to pass the wire through though.My wife came out with an idea how to fish the wire so it doesn't catch the edges of the joist, she's so smart.That extension is really stiff thinking it would be ok to drill through two joist but i should have ordered the longest one and bigger diameter too. 9/16" for a 14/2 wire is a little tight , go bigger, it would have been easier. I would recommend the bit but you have to be handy to do this pot light install job if the ceiling is not exposed.