CVS18 Universal Split Constant Velocity Joint Gaiter Boot Replacement Kit, Black

Having accidentally torched my CV boot when removing the wheel bearing for replacement, I had now entered the realm of CV boot replacements. Thanks to amazon, just about anything and everything can be found and within a good 10 minutes of browsing, this one was the winner for my needs. I did not want to deal with the hassle of removing the knuckle from the control arm or strut from the knuckle just to get the CV axle out. My job application simply required a new outer boot and had not been driven to ruin the axle or lack of grease as some may have experienced. On installation of the boot, I had to trim the last layer off as well as the top layer to get an old boot size fit. I wish I had been more careful with the glue as it is VERY fast drying and sticky. It was also burn your eyes from the vapors it produces similar to peeling onions. Gloves are provided that smell like balloons but they will do the job. I accidentally got some glue on my fingers though and nearly ruined the job due to being distracted by a nasty finger/glue dried up scenario. WEAR THE GLOVES and TAKE YOUR TIME. Glue each layer at a time, pinching it shut and don't worry if there is overspill as you will actually want an extra layer oozing across the split lines to ensure long term support. With all my mistakes, I barely had enough glue but I had messed up so without the mess up, I imagine having half the amount of glue remaining. Gen 2 Prius fix is complete and was able to use one of the 2 boot clamps. The smaller would not play nice on the smallest part of the boot so I used a zip tie. Make sure the bigger clamp is used for the main seal of the boot near the joint. That is most important after all. Glue everything, dry, and put the provided grease at the joint. Then pull the boot over the joint/axle. Lock the strap over it and done. Someone gave a 1 star because it did not fit after gluing but his picture showed he did NOT cut off the smallest part of the top of the boot. I had to do this to get a flush fit otherwise it was not flexing properly. Will follow up if I need to redo the job since my glue failure but my mistake after all. Took the tire off to have more space to work on the car but used two jack stands.

After having watched a British gentleman use this product to repair a car from the same manufacturer as mine, I decided to take a shot. Bad decision. I was meticulous and took my time. However, this boot did not properly fit either end. The enclosed clamps look great in theory. In practice, not so much. There was no way to lock the clamp in place, snap the protrusions into place and not have it slip without needing more than 2 hands. Also, with there being no channel lip at the larger end, the clamp consistently slipped off the boot. I tried using standard screw clamps, but again the lack of a channel to secure was desperately needed. Eventually a zip tie was secured, but I am not confident it will hold for long. This car is not a daily driver and will almost never see wet conditions, but I am expecting a larger repair bill for the entire replacement of both drive shafts. One bright spot is the strength of the glue bond. It sets up quickly and has tremendous strength. Too bad the rest of the process and product don’t live up to that standard.

Saved me from having to buy an axle for my 2008 Dodge Nitro with 250,000 miles just for a broken cv boot. This car is my beater with a heater I drive back and forth to work and while it has been a great car since new, with 250k I’m hesitant to dump money into it if it isn’t necessary and this split boot was just what I needed. It fit up good. I cut the first step off the small end before attempting to install. I thought the big end was the right size but after I glued it together I realized I didn’t check very good. Didn’t matter-the next step stretched over no problem. You can tell in the pic where I cut the excess off after. After I cut the excess off, I made sure I had enough material on both sides of the glued seam so I could test the bond. I couldn’t pull it apart. The rubber seems high quality, isn’t hard, and can be stretched. The small end after I trimmed it was still a little too small for the seam to close up so I stretched it for about 30 seconds and put it back on and it had the extra length to join properly. Gotta be ready to go after you stretch it because it doesn’t take long to shrink back. Clamps seemed kinda wonky and I already had stainless hose clamps for days so I just used them. My kit was in excellent condition, unopened, with no signs of having been a previous return. The glue tube seal was unbroken and there was enough glue to do two of these boots easily.

I have installed Bailcast CVS18 over the inner right CV joint on a 2009 FWD Nissan Murano. Initially, I was confused with the "Trilobe Fitment" instructions. I thought, I needed to remove the "Trilobe Component" from the supplied boot. Since it wasn't there, I thought, I was sent the wrong boot or a defective one. Eventually, I figured out, it was necessary to leave behind the last "rung" of the old boot and stretch the new boot over it. This remnant of the old boot functions as an adapter. I had difficulty installing the provided clamp on this end of the boot, i.e., the large end. It wasn't possible to get any pliers in an oblique position, due to the close clearance. You are right up against the differential. Ultimately, I broke the provided clamp. In lieu of the provided clamp, I used two Harbor Freight stainless steel cable ties. One alone, was not long enough. I'm not confident this will hold. The strength and tightness of the cable ties appears to be lacking. The improvised nature of the trilobe fitment doesn't appear very stable. I can see the whole thing slipping off. This vehicle is not on the road yet, due to other repairs in progress. So, any advice would be greatly appreciated. The provided clamp on the small end didn't work out either. I couldn't get it small enough. There I used one of the same stainless steel cable ties. I'm confident it will hold. The only modification I made to the boot was cutting off one rung at the small end. The gluing worked great as per the video. I allowed it to dry overnight before stretching the boot in place. I was surprised how elastic the boot was; it was easy to maneuver into place. Prior to stretching the boot in place, I inserted the provide grease into the CV joint with a disposable syringe. The only place the old boot was damaged was at the small end, i.e., a complete circular separation. I think, should I encounter the same circumstances again. I would leave the entire boot in place, except for the small separated piece and stretch the new one over it. Regardless, great video! Your help is truly appreciated.

Pulling the axles to normally replace the axle boots would have opened a can of worms in my situation so I tried these split boots. On the first attempt the wide end would not bond together no matter how long I held it, tried covering the loose seam with high-temp silicone sealer but rotational force just spit the grease out. The large clamp also didn't "bite" enough even with a proper CV clamp too so I ordered a small CV clamp assortment for the next attempt. Use paper towels to wipe off as much grease, then more paper towels with brake parts cleaner. Constantly change the towels; you don't want to contaminate the areas you just cleaned since any greasy residue on the boots can cause issues with the gluing process. I also followed someone's video idea and covered the joint area with plastic wrap just in case there's any grease still in the CV joint When trimming the boot leave a section of the "crease" right before where your clamp will be. Before gluing the boot itself practice on the section you cut to get a feel of the process. When gluing the actual boot do small sections at a time and don't be stingy with the glue. Hold the areas for more than a minute while drying. The wide end still didn't seal as tightly at the seam compared to the narrow end so I applied a little baking soda to speed up curing and strengthen the bond (it worked). Once the whole seam is glued together I waited a few minutes to ensure the glue was fully dried, then applied more just to be safe. By the way the glue is indeed cyanoacrylate AKA crazy glue/super glue. Remove the plastic wrap then fill the joint, not the boot, with the supplied grease. The wide end's inside diameter was slightly smaller than the actual CV housing but I was able to slide it on after several minutes. I've driven over 100 miles since the repair and so far so good.

Product itself is great, easy to handle and install with the slit down the center. Glue, grease and clamps come with it. Just be advised, clamps require a special tool to close so this poses a challenge. I zip tied my boot on then drove to store to get easier clamps. Also the fit for an SX4 isn’t perfect but you can make it work fine. Boot is too wide on wide end and too small on other end and it’s too long overall. But the good news here was because it was long, I could make it work then I just cut the access off. So moral of the story….Yes it works for an SX4 but just be advised about the clamps and it will take a little simple jimmy rigging. Overall the product was great 👍 no complaints from me.

The item is defective and not used and they wouldnt let me return it , after request the return, they said they will send me email a return code , and they never did, PLEASE Dont Buy from this seller

Take your time, follow the directions or better yet follow some video tutorials and these work as advertised. I've had this on my 2004 Honda CRV for about a month and a half now, and it still holding up fine and there is no grease leaking out. Again, all you need to do is take your time, Make sure you set yourself up so you have enough room to maneuver and have adequate light and the correct tool to crimp the The clamp bands, or whatever they're called. You can also use zip ties, but seems people have varying degrees of success with them. That being said I didn't use them here but I have in the past with no problems. Also, this is universal fit and will fit different diameter CV joints, so you just cut off what you don't need, just do it carefully and you'll have no problems.