BOSS Audio Systems AR1500M Monoblock Car Amplifier - 1500 High Output, High/Low Level Inputs, Low Pass Crossover, Hook Up to Subwoofer for Bass

This is a solid amp as long as you don't expect 1500 watts. It's a more realistic 600W max with an RMS of around 200. The fuse is 30 amp, which at 14 volts equates to 420 watts. It's at most 60% efficient, so that's 252W output. And since that's probably still too high, let's call it 200 watts RMS. It sounds good and doesn't distort unless you really crank it up. Even at 200W it shakes my mirrors and rattles the trim pieces. Punches hard and sounds good with an Infinity 1262 wired at 2 ohms in a Scosche truck box. Pros: Sounds good Small, and lightweight Has high level inputs Cons: It gets hot, but I haven't had it shut down on me yet Not anywhere near claimed output So overall, I'm impressed with this amp, at least for the price. It's a solid amp for a good price. If you're looking to add some low-end to your system, this is a good way to do it.

This is a Mono amp, meaning you can only plug One Subwoofer into it. For $50, this AMP works flawlessly. It has never turned off from being too hot and I am an Uber EATS driver, so my car is on ALL day. The best part about this AMP, is that is has a Line Out Converter / High Output adapter installed inside it and it comes with wires. My LOC didn't arrive when the AMP did so I was pretty mad, then realized that it had that adapter and was immediately excited again. VERY easy to hook up and use. I recommend this for anybody New to bass systems and looking to install a simple 12". I've got a 1000w 12" Kenwood Subwoofer installed to it. Beats HARD. You won't be dissapointed. HERE'S SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS ON INSTALLING YOUR SUB TO STOCK HEAD UNT YOURSELF. - Subwoofer should be in enclosed box. - Amplifier is best screwed to the subwoofer box - Take the Power wire, cut it as needed, and wire it to the BATTERY input on the AMP, then run it to your car battry Positive Terminal. ( I wrapped the wire around it and stuck the Cars wire harNess over it and tightened it ) - Ground wire goes to the GRND input on the AMP then goes to either a bolt in your trunk ( which shouldn't be painted ) or If you have a fuse box in the trunk with a ground wire, you can use that bolt as well. - Blue power wire. That goes to the REM / Remote input on your AMP and runs either to the power wire in your head unit, or a fuse that turns off when car is off. ( I used my ignition fuse. I Wrapped a wire around it barely, so I could get it back into the fuse slot ) Now that your AMP will have power when the car is turned on or in the accessory mode, we can now wire the speakers. Easiest part, just nobody ever describes it good. -Your subwoofer has two inputs on the box and the subwoofer should be wired inside the box as well. POSITIVE TO POSITIVE, NEGATIVE TO NEGATIVE. - Your amp has a positive and negative input. Use the speaker wire you have and wire it to the subwoofer box, from the AMP. Positive to Positive, Negative to Negative. Positive is often times a silver wire, as Negative will be Copper. OFTEN, not for all speaker wire. NOW, the LOC if your bought one, or I'f your using an AMP like this, which came with an adapter installed in the AMP already. - The LOC / Adapter wires both are the same. They have 5 wires and some LOCs only have 4 wires. With 5 wires, there is a ground wire which I used a piece of Negative speaker wire to make it longer, then ran that to where I had the AMPs ground wire. - Locate your rear speakers and figure out which is the Positive connector and which is the Negative. The Wires on the LOC or Adapter wires will be like this if your looking at it POS. NEG. GROUND. NEG. POS. OR if you only have 4 wires without the ground, ignore the ground. When the adapter wires are plugged to the AMP, you'll see which side is Left and Right. So from there, simply tap those wires into the Left and Right rear speaker. You can take the plug off the speaker wrap it around snug, and slide the plug back on. That's what I did. Just make sure POSITIVE is POSITIVE and NEGATIVE is NEGATIVE. The Wires on the LOC are very short and so are the wires on the Adapter wires foe the AMP if you don't have the LOC. If you are using an LOC, once those wires are tapped to your rear speakers, plug in the RCA and match the colors up correctly. Make sure whatever wires you cut, are properly wrapped In electrical tape or if the shrink wrap, whatever you use. Now, turn your Car on and your AMP is ready to go, and your Bass system should now be bumping. Adjust the GAIN and volume on yur amp according to your taste. If your AMP does NOT come on, it's because your blue power wire isn't installed correctly. Best way to test your AMP is find a normal fuse to something that's always on, like a cig ligter. Use different fuses until you get it to turn on then property identify your ignition fuse that way the AMP cuts off when yu turn the key off. Your welcome.

No it's not 1500W, but the beauty is with the right applications, very hard to beat in the price range. I have this amp as well as a Pioneer 760W amplifier. Off course they are very different, but comes down to two things for me: Features and price. Power is relative. I don't think I would ever find a system setup with less than 1000W total power that would blow my socks off. So getting back to it. This amp is rated at 1500W, impossible. The power draw is nowhere near that. Maybe 700W? No more like 300W rms if you are lucky. Still that is more than enough for me, and thanks to fellow reviewers it was still a great decision. The cheap choice! Boss, best in value overall. Want something better, stick with Pioneer or Rockford Fosgate or even Kicker. Will you find better for the price? Nope!!!

I had bought this Boss AR1500M amp to power one Infinity 1260 single coil sub (4ohm-300w RMS) thats in a sealed 1.25cf box as recomended by Infinity sub specs, its all in a Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd with a nice factory Infinity system, and now has more than what it was missing on the low end from the factory, yes enough bass now to tick off the neighbors more than a few doors down, BUT even though I am very happy with my amp just like when I bought it I didnt really think Id get 700w RMS, even if Id got a 1 ohm sub not a 4ohm, but its only got one 30amp fuse built in it so? But as Id hoped its enough it powers my one 12" sub very well with the level at about 2/5 way up and I have the remote bass knob hardly even up about 15% and it sounds really good and balanced with the factory system with a lot of bass knob to go when needed. I would have gave it 5 stars if they had rated it has a 300w RMS and maybe could beleave that but not 700w, but for its price and how it works on my setup I really could not be happier. PS I used a 1/2 farad Cap too.. and Jeeps Infinity factory has 2 dash 2.75" mid/tweets - 2 front door bass 6x9" - 2 6&1/2" full range in back doors with a six channel Infinity amp about 25-30 RMS each. 9/21/12 SIX MONTH UPDATE: Amp still at about 30% gain hooked up on high speaker level inputs and all is great, I have never notice my amp getting hot though it is mounted to the side of my jeeps some what open cargo bay, checked after an hour of mid-to-loud volume bumping and was just slightly warm, well about as warm as it started here with our Florida summers. Not too long ago I also added a pair of Infinity 1" tweeters, one in each of the top back corners of the R/L cargo windows running on a older 2 x 25watt RMS amp I had, and now am so completly happy with my system, Ive got nice crisp highs, and lots of deep low's your basic factory systems just can't even put out, and everyone thats heard my still factory looking system lately are just like WOW and complement on how it has such full and rich balanced sound, and a few people now after seeing my simple add-ons want me to help them improve there factory systems!

This amp is so compact, I wasn't sure if it would power my dual 12 inch L5 kicker subs. But to my surprise, it powered it similar to my MTX pro Amp. My MTX Amp got water damaged, but I didn't want to spend the money to get another one. So I took a chance on the Boss Amp because it was a fraction of the cost. If you're not going to compete in audio competitions, this Amp is perfect. It performs like the pro amps, but without the flashy name. No one will know the difference. This is truly the best bang for your buck Amp.

First off, I'm pissed I can't give this a zero star. Because that's really what this deserves. I ordered one of these as a temporary replacement for a good amp I had while I was still looking around. This one had decent enough reviews, I thought it would be good as a temporary/backup. Order it, comes in the mail two days later, go to install and the first one refuses to turn on. Made sure all the wiring was correct, tore out paneling to make sure there wasn't any severed cords, checked under the hood, tore the head unit out. All good. So at that point I'm saying wtf. File for a replacement, replacement comes in. Go to hook it up and the replacement too refuses to turn on. This one however wouldn't stop blowing fuses. Every time I connected it to power the fuses blew, went through the two it came with, the two the previous amp came with and one that was plugged into the old amp that the first one replaced it with. Blew all 5 immediately. And on top of that it ruined my sub with all of it's electrical problems, so I'm now not even back to square 1, I'm set further back than that. Long story short, Boss is garbage. Everyone told me before I bought it, decided to find out for myself and it didn't pay off. Save yourself time and upon reading this, promptly continue your search, don't waste your time on this pile of garbage.

This amp honestly isn't that bad. BOSS way overrates their stuff, but if you keep that in mind, you're good. The QUALITY isn't bad, the specs are just absurd. This is NOT a 700w RMS amp. I had it powering two d10f BOSS subwoofers, and it wasn't enough. You have to bump the bass boost to the "+18db" mode to get bass out of it, and even then you can tell it's not clean sound. Too much woofer for it. If you had a 50 or 100w RMS sub, this would be a nice match I think. Heck the price is great too. I called BOSS about this and they admitted that they published the wrong specs for this amp. If you're getting two of the BOSS d10f subs (great subs so far btw,) I highly recommend the AR2500M (or something larger.) The power is much cleaner - solid amp. Also, the AR2000M and AR2500M both have a VARIABLE bass boost, while the AR1500M only has a switch "0" or "+18db." I think BOSS uses RMS ratings kind of like AMD rated their CPU's back in the day. They'd call a 1.8ghz CPU a "2200+" because it performed like a 2.2 Almost wondering if that's what BOSS is trying to do. The +18db switch does kick up the sound, but it isn't clean at loud volumes (it's fine at lower volumes.) Like I said, people knock BOSS a lot. But don't buy it thinking you're going to get stated power. Buy it using some common sense. They're not BAD amps in my opinion (actually I think this ARMOR series is pretty good - lacks some functions but for the price not bad). I think BOSS is more a victim of some questionable marketing.

After receiving horrible (huge understatement) customer service on a past order I placed directly from BOSS I vowed to never give them my money again. Fast forward 6 moths & I needed a single din tuner and mono amp to complete a project that already had all Boss components (head/speakers/sub). I replaced the head with an Alpine unit and this amp. This powers 2 -1000w subs without distortion and without issue.

パワーもそこそこあり、ボディーもアルミ？なのでしっかりしていて、個人的に満足してます！

Funciona como esperaba y él precio esta accessible. Para lo que quería. Esta más que suficiente a buen precio y tamaño

GREAT PERFORMANCE

I finally installed this unit on the weekend after having it sit in the box for the better part of a year. I am happy so far with its performance, though I have to tune it properly. This is installed in my 2014 Ram 1500 with the factory Alpine "upgrade" 10 speaker audio system. The Alpine system is "ok" but not great. The sounds is pretty good, but the small factory amps overpower the matched speakers at higher volume, including the DVC 8" sub. I swapped out the factory sub in the plastic box for a fitted box and installed an older Pioneer Premier 10" shallow mount sub (its so goooood). This amp is connected to the factory system with a LC2i Line Out Converter using the rear full range speakers to tap into. This combination works very well and is simple to set up. The amp has a decent crossover for a low cost amp, and I must say I got more than I expected for the price. No this is not a ground pounder that will blow your ear drums out, but it is a decent tuneable small form factor (ok, medium sized form factor) mono amp for a good price. The fit and finish is excellent actually, better than expected. Packaging and instructions were great. I am pleased already with the amp and its capabilities are what I expected for the price (and then some). The best part, the remote gain dial is essential in my setup and it seems to work quite well. I still need to tune the LC2i LOC, and then I am certain it will be even better.

金額的には高出力で使えますが、今回2台目です。1台目は2年半で壊れました。(かなり熱のこもる状態で使用していた) 物は悪くないと思いますし、金額的に考えたら安くて入門アンプとしては使い易い気もします！