SEALIGHT 9007/HB5 LED Resistor Kit Relay Harness Adapter Anti Flicker Error Decoder Warning Canceller

Worked! My high beams switched on my fog lights after installing my LED headlights. My fog light switch turned in my high beams.These solved the problem!

Purchased SEALIGHT LED headlamp bulbs for a 2003 Dodge RAM 1500. The LEDs worked but would flicker and it would say "head lamp out" on the dash.After some research I found that I would need a canbus decoder. I found this one which is the same brand as the LED head lights. Install is as simple as changing a headlight bulb.The only thing you need to keep in mind is that the resistors get extremely hot very fast. Make sure you keep them away from any plastic or wires.

Installing a pair of LED headlight conversion units in my Dodge Grand Caravan caused the Body Control Module to go all Chicken Little when I tried to switch between low and high beams; it would click back and forth as many as a dozen times before finally settling on one, and sometimes it would just turn the headlights *off* because it didn't see that the bulbs were drawing the amount of current it expected. Adding these harnesses fixed that. The technical detail is that each of these adds a pair of resistors in parallel with the bulbs to increase the amount of current flowing in the circuit without changing the voltage delivered to the LEDs. With these in place, the Body Control Module is happy again.

Just installed with Beamtech 9007's on my truck today. There is definitely no flicker, but I have noticed after the truck is shut off, the first time I lock/unlock the truck with the key fob the headlights flash really briefly. Don't know what this is, maybe some residual charge? Hoping it's not an issue with the cancellers, as so far they seem to be working fine, but not knowledgeable enough about LEDs to know.

They do what they should. When I installed my headlights, I had dashlights, lights flickering, and the brights would come on for about 5 seconds, then turn off. Keep in mind: the decoders get hot. It's just the orange part. Make sure you mount it on metal (said to work better, and the metal won't obviously melt), and away from wires, by themselves. They are easy to install. However you plugged in the LED lights to the factory wiring, its the same way, just added length. Since installed, I no longer have the listed issues. It has solved them for me, for now. I'm just hoping they last the life of the headlights.

Loved that it’s plug and play and that there’s no splicing or manipulating the wires. This resistor kit made the LED stop flickering immediately. Would recommended.

Ordered light for my truck. After installation the Error code appears on the dashboard. Company promised to send fun us for free but never did.Ordered the parts. Resistor was so hot it could melt plastic. Straps came with the kit was useless as it melted immediately.Stay away from this company. Dangerous and potential fire hazard product.!!!

These work great for an LED upgrade on a big workhorse chassis motorhome. Previously had installed the LED bulbs and had issues with the dash warning lights as well as high/low beam not working. Plugged this in and bam all works without a hitch.

I own a 2005 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9l Diesel truck and was looking for LED head lights that will allow my DRL to work, in Canada some Provinces it is law. After researching products and asking questions, I found this Sealight Resistor Kit Relay Harness Adapter Anti Flicker Error Decoder Warning Canceller. It was an easy install and works well. I've been told by a certain sales guy who sells HID kits that the Relay kit will not last and will stop working in a few months. If anything changes I will let you all know. They've been working for over a month now.First Picture is the DRL ( Daytime Running Lights ) 2nd picture is low beams, and the 3rd picture is high beams.Pictures were taken in a underground parking during the day time. They are brighter at night and I am happy with them so far. Hope this helps others out when looking for an LED light that will allow your DRL to work as well.

If you just changed your halogen bulbs for LED's you might encounter the same problem as me, My high beam light was always on and bulbs too, this normally indicates that there is a problem with your headlight system (or both lights are flickering, or you get no low beam from both bulbs etc) but I just switched to LED's so I knew this was it, installed the resistors and the problem was gone! Thank you SEALIGHT.I do recommend disctonnecting the negative terminal on the battery and covering it with a rag before doing any electrical work on the car.Simple plug-n-play but be sure to mount them somewhere the resistor (golden parts) don't touch anything plastic as they will get VERY HOT and RAPIDLY.

I wanted to install LED headlight 'bulbs' with brighter output than standard halogen bulbs since the older Dodge Ram headlights are pretty weak.Bought some LED's and experienced the 'Lamp Out' dashboard error and the blinking low beam light (only on the drivers side, who knows why???)Tried some 'CanBus anti-flicker decoders' (bought locally), but No-Go.Purchased these through Amazon, looked at other user reviews and adapted their installation ideas.Pop-riveted them to some aluminum bar stock I had, installed them in a safe place on the truck, and All Is Well. Headlights are working perfectly, no dashboard warning, and I'm happy.As far as longevity goes, that will be a wait and see process. But I'm very happy with the product and recommend it for anyone facing the same issues I needed to resolve.

I have Sealight Leds in my 2005 dodge 3500, the light out put was bad, I installed these and instantly they were great, My DRL do however not always come on, running lights do but its hit or miss. At night it they seem to work with DRL. Night driving is not terrible anymore. I herd they get very hot so I might have to re route the wires.

Installed kit on my 97 F150 with DRL’s. Without this kit my less we’re stuck on high beam and flickered. This kit solved that issue and now the work correctly. Only thing is one of the terminals weren’t fully clicked into the connector so just had to mess around with that a bit. Not a big deal.