ESElectronic Specialties 688 True RMS Low Current Clamp Meter

This is a handy little amp clamp meter. Only a couple of little issues. I wish the display was easier to read at different angles, sometimes the back light helps, sometimes not. Also just be aware that the gauge wire running through the clamp can effect your reading if testing for parasitic draw. A big fat ground cable will give you a high mAmp reading. I always use a smaller jumper wire.

I purchased this low current clamp meter to be used as a corrosion engineering tool. I needed to measure current in the miliamp ranges and this does just that. I tried using other clamp meters but they would only go down to 0.1 A. This clamp meter can read down to 1 mA (not sure how accurate it is but it gives me the rough idea of the current).The clamp opening is large enough to fit around a 1/2" pipe which comes in handy.

Awesome. Quality Low DC current clamps are hard to find. I have used it several times to measure ~40ma loads and it works if you zero it near the wire before clamping. At these low currents there will be a small ~2ma bounce. Don't expect to accurately measure 1ma. The meter is sturdy and clamp jaw is not loose. It comes with a couple leads, a thermocouple, and a case

So much for using my Christmas bonus wisely.I tested it by measuring current from a regulated 24 VDC power supply connected to a series of large power resistors, shooting for 10 mA -- nothing extravagant or "precise", just a basic low current flow. Over some time the meter bounced around all over the place, from 8 mA to 25 mA. An in-line meter was steady at 10 mA. When disconnected, "zero" would not be at the original zero. (Yes, when zeroing I initially oriented the meter in the same direction as my measurement, such that it would not be affected by the earth's magnetic field, sunspots, angels, etc.) So low current measurements could not be trusted. I did not test AC ma, but at that point it was irrelevant.At higher currents (>10A or so, from a VFD, which I troubleshoot) it did not correspond to my Fluke or an inexpensive Chinese unit (which agreed with each other), habitually reading lower by ~10%. Or maybe it was higher. Either way, different, every time.The display was hard to read at any angle other than direct on +/- 10°.I did like the smaller jaws, which fit into areas I could not get to with my Fluke. So I will have to find something else that will do the trick. Your mileage may vary.

Works great

I only had the chance to use the meter to check for parasitic electrical drain on Automobile electical systems. Works great without having to disconnect battery cables.

Glad I didn't wait to use it on a car with an actual problem. I unboxed it and tried it out on my car to see how well it worked. As much as I had hoped to have found a way to test parasitic draw with out disconnecting the battery cable...I was extremely disappointed.Initially it was showing a 44 mAmp draw (which is quite high, 50 mAmp being the maximum acceptable, and I have no problem with my cars battery being drained). Then I open the door so the dome light is on and this unit reads 27 mAmp draw. I played with it a little more, read all the instructions, played a little more and got nothing but random, mostly highly questionable results.This morning I pulled my car in the shop, disconnected the battery and hooked up my regular amp meter and got normal accurate readings of normal key off draw of 16 mAmps, and 145 mAmp with dome light on. Reconnected battery and tried this amp clamp again with the same completely unbelievable results.

This and a good test light will be all that is needed for 90% of your automotive electrical needs, other than load testing the battery. I'm very happy with this meter.The only change I made was to use J-Popper type leads.

Small s practical and nice options

works great

Very happy with product.